The month-long parade of Fall 2011 fashion shows across the United States and Europe has come to a close and the forums have their final reviews of highlights and low points from Paris. Read on for their commentary.
The Hits: Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Celine.
THE HITS:
“Oh my. It’s totally McQueen but also not. She’s really taking things in a new direction, and in a great way. I love the final gowns and most of the coats/day outfits. Well done Sarah!” [mistress_f]
“Fantastic collection. Sarah Burton really has the McQueen spirit while expressing her own at the same time.” [Ciao!Manhattan]
“Wow, Sarah Burton is doing her thing!!! Lot’s of bondage inspired pieces, which are tough and sexy, but there were some softer and more feminine pieces too. What I love about Sarah Burton is that she has kept the McQueen aesthetic and signature style but made it all much more wearable than it was before. This will make the brand much more profitable!” [VersaceLuva586]
“I’m so glad to see this, for a while I thought the first two collections from her hands were good because they were trying to add the Sarah doses little by little, but this is a great path for McQueen’s line to follow. This is what McQueen was so fond of, the mix between ladylike and rough!” [Petit Lucille]
Read our review and see images from the Alexander McQueen collection.
“This collection somewhat reminds me of what [Galliano] was doing during the late 90s with Dior and his namesake line. There’s an understated provocativeness, cerebral sexuality, and controlled energy that resonates through the clothes. These are the Galliano designs I most appreciate. When the clothes speak for themselves and don’t get lost through all the fuss of makeup and stage sets.” [Leeroi]
“This collection has reminded me of what an absolute genius John Galliano is. These designs are beyond perfection and I honestly can’t find anything I dislike about it. The colors, the silhouettes, the shapes, the dresses, the coats, the shoes, the hats, etc. It all looks perfect to me. I want to own it all.” [TianSoFine]
“Shockingly beautiful and crazy collection. I really didn’t like the Dior collection, but this… just WOW. I really hope the John Galliano line says alive.” [holaloha]
“This is a great collection, it shows why John is respected as an artist and why people are still loyal to him despite the recent events. You simply cannot deny talent.” [Littleathquakes]
Read our review and see images from the John Galliano collection.
“Looks like [Phoebe Philo has] revisited some of the looks and shapes from her previous fall collection but the overall look is chic as expected. I would discard my wardrobe in favor of this and I believe that’s exactly what designers in general are aiming towards.” [Laritournelle]
“Looks like we’re having another amazing season for Celine. I love how Phoebe’s collections always make such a huge impression without any gimmicks or excessive styling et voilà, here’s yet another example. Just a simple piece of clothing, but you’re wowed instantly.” [mackos]
“Again a knockout collection from Celine. This is Philo at her best, her direction for the brand clearly established in this collection; impeccable tailoring and an understated sense of luxury in the pieces in spite of the utilitarianism. This woman definitely knows the trick of how to make you immediately want her clothing. I just can’t get over how persuasive everything looks, like the gorgeous coats and the sweaters and the paneled skirts… the color palette is perfect for fall as well, with just enough bursts of yellow and ochre in some of the pieces.” [AgrenateD]
“While minimalism isn’t always at the top of my list, there’s something really raw and uninterrupted about the way Phoebe [Philo] presents the Celine pieces. Few accessories, basic runway, basic styling, but still somehow leaves a VERY strong impression.” [Squizree]
Read our review and see images from the Celine collection.
The Misses: Valentino, Givenchy, Vionnet
THE MISSES:
“If someone told me Garavani’s house would end up looking like [this a] few years ago, I would be laughing to tears. I’m not laughing now, though, it’s really sad. For all the seasons [Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have] been doing their circus, I somewhat cannot accept that it really is Valentino. But what’s worse, I already see [celebrities] wearing it just because of the label.” [mackos]
“I must make a point to say that this collection is not ‘bad’ or ‘horrible,’ but it is a collection that is lacking any sort of imagination, inspiration, boldness, energy, and a lot of other lively descriptive words. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are completely resting on a very very specific deal that is not to be confused with consistency, but repetition. This is a sign that they are not secure in their own aesthetic yet and cannot flourish in it. I hope they figure it out soon before the suits do and show them the red door.” [Salvatore]
“[Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have] restrained the ruffles, and have finally beaten me into submission with their fragile chiffon and lace creations, because some of those pieces aren’t bad, although there’s still something essential missing from the proportions, there’s no magic, no expert touch.” [tigerrouge]
Read our review and see images from the Valentino collection.
“Jeez, Riccardo [Tisci] keeps navigating far from the mysticism of his earlier collections… and closer to the Anna Dello Russo shore. Too many prints I’m tempted to call dumb. I hope this doesn’t end badly for him.” [MulletProof]
“A very strange proposition from Tisci this season; some of the collection is bordering on farcical. I find it hard to believe customers will flock to wear these prints. Givenchy is not in the vein of designers like Marc Jacobs or Prada who can humor its customer base with odd/strange prints/ideas. I don’t know why he is trying to go in this direction. To me, collections based on gimmick equal sacrificing the name for profit, as those kind of pieces are so clearly aimed at selling to a younger, fast-paced generation of women/girls.” [helmut.newton]
“Christopher Kane managed to make me like gorilla prints, and I thought that after that any good designer could make me like any print, but I see I was wrong. The shoes are killer, there are some nice elements here and there, but overall it’s just really disappointing. None of the prints work for me, [nor do] the hats or the glasses. I hope Riccardo [Tisci] is just going through a hard phase that will end soon. It’s Givenchy for God’s sake, we know Tisci can do much better than this.” [*ana*]
“Looking through this collection is a bit like listening to someone tell a joke that they clearly think will be hilarious only to have the punch line fall flat… I really did try to find something better to say about this collection but all I could really come up with was that it’s pretty stupid looking. It just comes off as a really calculated attempt at being cool, and street, and avant garde although in truth it’s not really any of those things.” [Spike413]
Read our review and see images of the Givenchy collection.
“With access to one of the richest archives possible, this is all they could come up with?” [Salvatore]
“This presentation is hurting my eyes.” [saann]
“What’s so Vionnet about this? This is such a bad representation of undoubtedly the most influential fashion house ever!” [mdankwah]
“Wow. All that criticism that Sophia Kokosalaki got, I wonder if anybody is having a helping of crow? At least what she did was close to the Vionnet aesthetic.” [Scott]
Photos: Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXtree
