Last night The Photographers’ Gallery (the U.K.’s first independent gallery devoted to photography) previewed Fashion in the Mirror: Self-Reflection in Fashion Photography. This body of work is curated by Michel Mallard and Raphaëlle Stopin, organizers of the annual International Fashion and Photography Festival in Hyères (www.villanoailles-hyeres.com/hyeres2008).
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The birth of fashion photography as the visual representation of glamour, seduction and dreams took place within the photographer’s studio. The post World War II period saw a new breed of fashion photographers venturing out of their studios in search of more realistic, alternative locations. More recently, notably in the 1990s with its championing of the so-called ‘grunge’ style, the fashion photograph has persisted in trying to shake off its image of being purely decorative.
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The photographers in Fashion in the Mirror seek their subject matter within rather than beyond their own field. The works in the exhibition deconstruct the image-making process and lay bare the basic principles of the fashion photograph; the way it is staged, its artificiality and the notion of ‘perfect beauty,’ finding both comedy and poetry in the set-up of the studio. The exhibition will present an overview of this self-examination and an intriguing look behind-the-scenes from the 1940s to the present day.
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The addition of assistants, stylists and photographic equipment within the photograph draws attention to the cliché of the ‘fashion entourage’ and queries the myth of the slick fashion image.
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Some pieces appear artificiality staged in a studio setting, and others are candids shot on location, surrounded by nature’s beauty.
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The exhibition officially opens July 18th and runs through September 14th.
More information is available at www.photonet.org.uk.