If you’ve always dreamt of going dark (lipstick-wise), now’s the time. While the “fuss” of dark lipstick may cause some hesitation — darker shades are known to fade and smudge on your teeth and magnify rough patches and dry flakes that might otherwise go unnoticed — with the right preparation and formula, all these cares are easily swiped away.
Then, all you’re left with is color payout. As evidenced by the Fall 2017 runways, super-saturated Bordeaux, oxblood, deep plum, dark chocolate, navy and black (or better yet, black-with-a-touch-of-burgundy) lips make for show-stopping looks this season. Minimalist, barely-there makeup is all well and good, but sometimes you want to see and be seen, turn heads, take names.
That’s where Make Up For Ever makeup artist Jessie Powers comes in. The beauty expert was kind enough to give us some tips on how to wear dark lipstick like a catwalk star (hold the juvenile, Wednesday Addams goth vibes). “Wearing dark lipstick is on-trend but can be an intimidating look to try for a variety of reasons,” explains Powers. “Women often feel the look is too severe or that a dark shade looks dated or overdone. Those are understandable concerns but there are several tips that will help you sport dramatic dark lips without fear.”
Intrigued? You should be. Scroll through the slideshow below for Powers’ pro tips on going dark, the best dark lip looks of the Fall 2017 season and, last but not least, our favorite moody lipsticks to shop now.
[ Next: Before You Buy: 12 Top-Rated Matte Lipsticks to Try Now ]
Dark Lips
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Start With Lip Liner
"It is a must to use a lip liner when wearing dark colors," affirms Powers. "It has a twofold purpose. Filling in the entire lip with liner creates a good base for lip color that won’t run. Dark colors contrast with the surrounding skin, so a liner is also essential for creating a crisp, clean edge. Also, don’t apply your liner after your lip color. It may glide on easily but it won’t do anything to prevent running."
Philipp Plein Fall 2017, Image: Imaxtree
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Choose a Matte or Opaque Cream Lipstick
"Choose a lipstick that has a matte or opaque cream finish to make the dark color look clean and deliberate," Powers adds. "Transparent finishes tend to fade quickly, look patchy and give the appearance of a messy application."
La Perla Fall 2017, Image: Imaxtree
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Blurred Dark Lip Looks Are Trending
That said, experimental, intentionally blurred dark lip looks are gaining traction. As with all "undone" beauty trends, unlined lips give off a cool, true-to-life vibe. See: Giambattista Valli's Fall 2017 show, where makeup artist Val Garland created dramatic, soft-focus scarlet lips. Garland darkened the center, made the edges a bit faded and added a high-gloss finish. She paired the bold lips with nothing but a fresh, dewy face.
Giambattista Valli Fall 2017, Image: Imaxtree
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Dark Lips Work Best With Minimal Eye Makeup
On that note, "to avoid looking overdone, balance out your entire makeup look," advises Powers. "Dark lips look best with groomed, well-defined brows, minimal eye makeup and soft cheeks. Let your lips be the statement and focus of the look." At Valentino, Pat McGrath pushed this principle to its limits, pairing deep bordeaux lips with monochromatic reverse red eyeliner.
Valentino Fall 2017; Image: Imaxtree
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...But Dark Lips With Bold Eyeshadow Create Drama
Ditto goes for Anna Sui, where McGrath combined dark lips with glittery, high-impact eyeshadow. “The real strength is in the mouth and the eyes and it’s all just about the decadence of [the blue] color,” said the makeup legend backstage.
Anna Sui Fall 2017; Image: Imaxtree
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Blush Keeps a Dark Lip From Washing Out Your Face
Per Powers: "If your dark lip is washing out the rest of your face, sweep on some extra blush or bronzer to brighten up your complexion." A dot of metallic shadow at the inner corners of your eyes adds extra perk.
Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2017; Image: Imaxtree
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Avoid Heavy Contouring
Avoid heavy contouring or highlighting. (Gothic lipstick can make over-emphasized cheekbones appear gaunt.)
Aquilano.Rimondi Fall 2017; Image: Imaxtree
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Find the Best Dark Lipstick for Your Skin Tone
When it comes to choosing a hue, "it’s good to branch out and try a variety of different colors to find the one that is most flattering," says Powers. "Pink-based lipsticks complement fair skin tones, while a blue-based option is best for medium skin tones and makes teeth look whiter."
Fenty x Puma Fall 2017; Image: Imaxtree
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Set the Edges of Your Lip With Powder
Ensure your daring lip lasts through the day (or night). "To keep dark lips looking perfect, dab on a little bit of your foundation powder around the edge of your lips. Use a small flat shadow brush or cotton swab for precise application," says Powers.
Marco de Vincenzo Fall 2017; Image: Imaxtree
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Practice Proper Lipstick Maintenance
Finally, consider maintenance. "Use a straw for beverages to prevent lipstick from wearing off in the center of the lip. Also, be careful of applying lip gloss over a dark lip if you are concerned about longevity. Lip gloss tends to break down lip color rather quickly," advises Powers. (Still, that shiny finish is definitely worth a few extra trips to the powder room.)
Jill Stuart Fall 2017; Image: Imaxtree
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Make Sure Lips Are Smooth and Exfoliated
Sugar Lip Polish, $24 at Sephora
Prior to lipstick application, exfoliate with a light lip scrub. (Dark lipsticks are notoriously unforgiving toward chapped lips.)
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MAKE UP FOR EVER
Aqua Lip Waterproof Lipliner Pencil, $20 at Sephora
This lipliner will never smudge, feather, fade or dry out your lips and even works as a lipstick substitute in a pinch.
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Bite Beauty
Amuse Bouche Lipstick in Rouge Berry, $26 at Sephora
Incredibly creamy, nutrient, vitamin and omega oil-infused, with fantastic (dark cherry) color payoff.
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Chanel
Rouge Allure Velvet Intense Long-Wear Lip Colour in Nightfall, $37 at Chanel
Chanel's super-pigmented, ultra-moisturizing lipsticks need no introduction. Wear this deep red to parties — or to the grocery store.
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NARS
Powermatte Lip Pigment in Under My Thumb, $26 at Sephora
A little of NARS' Powermatte lipstick goes a long way. It's non-sticky, intensely spreadable and deeply pigmented — one swipe will completely saturate your lips. Just be sure to keep your mouth closed as it's drying to avoid inadvertently painting your teeth.
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Lipstick Queen
Bete Noire Collection Lipstick in Possessed Intense, $32 at Dermstore
Don't be afraid to layer lipsticks. We like this dark purple shade with a deep red base.
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Marc Jacobs Beauty
Collector's Edition Le Marc Lip Crème Lipstick in Blacquer, $30 at Sephora
Pair a black lip with matte skin and zero mascara or eyeliner.
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Maybelline
Color Sensational Vivid Matte Liquid Lipstick in Possessed Plum, $7.99 at Maybelline
Finally, a dark purple liquid lipstick that isn't scary (or scary overpriced).
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Face Stockholm
Matte Lipstick in Mörkbrun, $22 at Face Stockholm
Get the perfect dark chocolate pout courtesy of cult favorite Face Stockholm.
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Pat McGrath Labs
MatteTrance Lipstick in Deep Void, $38 at Pat McGrath Labs
Pat McGrath had 12 requirements for her lipstick formula: it had to be creamy, not powdery, not dry, not mask-like, not oily, rich, even, pigmented, comfortable, matte, very concentrated and precise. MatteTrance is all of these things. If you're not partial to Deep Void, treat yourself to at least one other tube.
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Yves Saint Laurent
Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick Collection in Alternative Plum, $37 at Sephora
Finally, a dark lipstick that's long-wearing and doesn't clump or dry. Worth every penny.
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Tom Ford
Girls Lip Color in Kyra, $36 at Sephora
Infused with shea butter and vitamins C and E, this ultra-moisturizing, semi-sheer shade creates a dramatic but ultra-wearable dark lip.
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Ardell Beauty
No Morals Hydra Lipstick, $9.99 at Sally Beauty
Here's an under-$10 dark lipstick that doesn't compromise on quality or color payoff.
