The Definitive Guide to How to Use Highlighter Makeup

Who doesn’t want supercharged, moist-looking skin? (Rhetorical question.) That ultra-glowy, ultra-shimmery, lit-from-within look is extremely relevant right now, but it’s not as if it’s a passing trend. Over the past decade, highlighters have seen an exponential growth in popularity. (To wit: last year The NDP Group reported a 21 percent increase in sales of highlighter makeup.) Beauty and fashion aficionados now basically dip their faces — or in the case of Kim Kardashian, their bodies — in the stuff. But for highlighter novices, the question of where to put highlighter makeup — like, where exactly — can be a bit confusing. Especially if your cheekbones aren’t as prominent as Kim’s, your hand less practiced. When tasked with highlighting ourselves, it’s important to know those key micro targets — the inner corners of the eyes, the cupid’s bow — that need attention. We must also remember the rules of how to apply highlighter: where it comes in our makeup routine, which luminizing products look best on our specific skin type and tone, how to blend, etc. As far as the aforementioned targets go, here’s a quick cheat sheet:

Got it? Good. Now, whether you prefer a prismatic Fenty Spring 2018 shimmer or a Glossier-ad-ready naked sheen, click through the gallery above for a more detailed explanation of where and how to use highlighter makeup, accompanied by some particularly pearlescent runway beauty photos.

[ Next: Master Class: How to Highlight and Contour Your Face the Right Way ]

How to Use Highlighter Makeup

Follow the Golden Rule

To highlight properly, apply your product of choice to the parts of your face light would naturally hit, i.e. along the entire cheek plane, brow bone, center of the forehead, top of the nose and bow of the lips, plus a little on the chin.
Where Does Highlighter Fit in Your Makeup Routine?

When do you apply those strategically placed swipes? After your foundation or tinted moisturizer, but before your concealer. Note: Always match the texture of your highlighter to your base. If you’re wearing liquid or cream foundation, opt for a creamy highlighter that will blend seamlessly; if you're using a powder highlighter, put a thin layer of translucent powder on over your foundation. Blending your makeup into one thin layer is key to achieving that natural glow.
Use Your Fingers

Question: How does one apply highlighter like an actual makeup artist? Answer: With one's fingers. "I lightly coat my pointer, middle and ring fingers with highlighter, and then rub them against the same fingers on the other hand," makeup artist Mally Roncal told Allure. "Tap your fingers up and down your cheekbones, and then dab whatever's left over on your brow bones, the center of your chin, and just one tap on the tip of your nose." Stella McCartney favorite Vincent Oquendo also recommends using your fingers (as opposed to a brush) to blend.
How to Apply Highlighter on Your Eyes

When applying highlighter makeup to your eye area, blend it underneath the eyebrow on the brow bone and into the inner crease. This will give you wide-awake eyes and noticeably lifted brows.
How to Use Highlighter Makeup on Your Lips

Before applying your lipstick, blend some highlighter into your Cupid’s bow and beneath your bottom lip. This might look a bit silly sans lip color, but once you’ve applied your signature shade, only a touch of the highlighter will show through, giving your lipstick a multi-dimensional color effect.
How to Use Highlighter Makeup on Your Cheeks

When applying highlighter to your cheeks, blend it on the highest point of your cheekbone and up towards your temple. This is especially important if you’re doing any contouring as it will draw attention away from the makeup-made shadows.
How to Use Highlighter on Your Nose

Running highlighter down the bridge of your nose will lift your schnoz and make it look slimmer. But be careful not to sweep it all the way to the tip — you’ll look shiny as opposed to strobed.
Kim Kardashian's Trick

To promote her KKW Beauty line, Kim Kardashian released a "How I Do My Makeup" video wherein she cleverly traces highlighter makeup along her collarbones and then draws it down each of her shoulders. (Obviously, this trick is more relevant during the summer months.) Take it from a pro: a light touch of body makeup will give you a truly natural-feeling, lit-from-within glow that radiates from your center, not your face.
Consider Your Skin Tone

Highlighter makeup should nearly match your skin, but give it a hint of shine. If you have sallow skin, pink toned highlighters are going to stick out, but if you have very pale skin, pink tones are perfect. (Here's a comprehensive guide to finding the right highlighter makeup for your complexion.)
Consider Your Skin Type

If you have dry skin, powder highlighter is a bad idea. If you have super oily skin, cream-based formulas don't stand a fighting chance. (Click here to see which highlighters makeup artists recommend based on skin type.)
Seek Out Pearl Shades

No matter your skin’s undertones, look for a highlighter makeup that has a number of different pearl shades. Guerlain Meteorites, for instance, is an industry leader and combines six different colors for a perfect, balanced glow. Highlighter neophytes might want to start with NARS The Multiple. It’s a stick, which makes application very easy, but most of the shades are also pigmented with color.
You Don't Want to Be Too Glittery

The goal when applying highlighter is to get a reflective, dewy look that makes you look like you just moisturized your skin. Noticeable glitter or sparkles will detract from this effect. Pro tip: Cream and liquid formulas tend to blend more readily and have a more dewy, skin-like finish. On the flip side, they wear off faster than powder formulas. Also, we highly recommend highlighter shopping IRL. When you’re at the store, try potential suitors on the back of your hand and blend well. If the product gives your skin a slight sheen you’ve got it right, if you look covered in glitter or sickly, try again.
...Unless You Do

More-is-more makeup wearers — like fans of Rihanna's new Fenty Beauty line — might want a more popping, Instagram-friendly, sexy-alien-vibes highlight. Needless to say, with colored highlighter, a little goes a long way. Start off with a dab of one color on your cheekbones or under your brow bones. Maybe try some on the inner corners of your eyes. Just remember to be sparing and, again, blend well. (Shop our favorite high-impact highlighters here.)