PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 18: Kate Moss walks the runway during the Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall/Winter 2018-2019 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 18, 2018 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Kate Moss is as synonymous with the 90s as the Kardashians are with the current decade. While she sported plenty of hairstyles as an in-demand model back in the day, off duty she relied on one ‘do that became her signature: an undone French twist. While a classic French twist is super tight with all strands pulled back, Kate favored a looser approach, letting a few strands frame the face. (Gwyneth Paltrow was also an advocate.)
Then the French twist appeared to go the way of bike shorts, chain belts and mini backpacks, but much like all of these once-dated trends, it found new life on the runway. There was a bit of a renaissance during the 2014 and 2015 ready-to-wear seasons with the ‘do appearing in classic form as well as more devil-may-care takes. But the resurgence didn’t last long.
Leave it to Kate, though, to bring back the French twist in grand fashion strutting the catwalk for the Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall 2018 show back in January. Decked out in a lust-worthy monogrammed trench, the supermodel’s updo was just as polished and insouciant as ever. While the Fall 2018 women’s collections didn’t jump on the bandwagon (perhaps because the hair and makeup for those shows was already planned out), we’re still hoping it pops up for Spring 2019 or at some of the couture shows this summer.
In anticipation, we asked Streeters hairstylist Holly Mills, who has worked with Rashida Jones, Winona Ryder and Imaan Hammam, to break down how to master the style. To create a “bubble bath French twist,” she suggests spraying your hair with TIGI Bed Head Superstar Queen for a Day before blowing out your locks or using OUAI Air Dry Foam if you’re taking an air-dry approach. “If you need extra texture or grip, you can add Sam McKnight Easy Up-Do Texture Spray or OUAI Texturizing Hair Spray.” Backcomb from the crown all the way down to the middle of the head, then part your hair and arrange the front with your hands to leave out a few strands on the side. Next, gather the rest of your hair at the middle of your head in the back (if you have thick tresses and are having trouble, hold the hair lower).
“Raking through the sides with your fingers, take your dominant hand and make an open palm thumb down while holding the rest of your hair in your other hand. Take your thumb down hand over the hair you’re holding with your other hand and grab the hair from the top. Twist the hair to the side and keep twisting with both hands until you start to see your desired shape.”
Holly also suggests relying on hairpins or U pins instead of bobby pins to secure the style. “For my fine hair, I use a total of three large hair pins for this look.” Then tousle the top and sides with your palms and pull out a few wisps. She advises keeping the ends out for a more casual vibe.
For more French twist inspiration, check out the slideshow above.
Kate Moss resurrected her once signature style for Kim Jones’ last show for the brand. Perfectly haphazard, this laid-back French twist somehow says "I woke up like this" and "I’m giving you 100 percent."
Image: Peter White/Getty Images
Chanel Fall 2015
Chanel went messy for its Fall 2015 show by favoring loose twists secured with black headbands.
Image: Imaxtree
Hermes Fall 2015
The classic hairstyle was given a new twist at Hermes with tons of texture in the roll.
Image: Imaxtree
Naeem Khan Fall 2015
Naeem Khan’s super structured French twist brought volume to the back and up front.
Image: Imaxtree
Oscar de la Renta Fall 2015
Proof that the old-school twist can still turn heads.
Image: Imaxtree
Dsquared2 Fall 2014
Much like Kate Moss’ slightly messy twist, the updos at this show featured plenty of free-flowing strands in front, but in this case, the twists also featured some loose ends.
Image: Imaxtree
Carolina Herrera Spring 2014
Models were treated to a double French twist with strands parted on the side and pulled back into two sections, then rolled into a smooth matching set.
Image: Imaxtree
Lela Rose Fall 2010
While the actual twist was pretty tight, the rest of hair was teased to the extreme.