Skin care is a science. It’s about concocting the right formulas to brighten, treat and moisturize complexions without causing irritation or an adverse reaction. You don’t need to have a detailed memory of high school chemistry class to craft a beauty regime, but there are times when having some basic knowledge can help on your quest for beautiful…
Why Your Product's pH Matters
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What Is pH
Let's start with the basics. pH stands for "power or potential of hydrogen" and it's the measure of how alkaline or how acidic aqueous substances are, says Dr. Jamé Heskett, MD, author of "The Well Path." More hydrogen ions make something more acidic or give it a lower pH while fewer hydrogen ions make a substance more alkaline or give it a higher pH.
The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with 0 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline or basic. A pH of 7 is considered neutral. Founder and CEO of Shiffa Dr. Lamees Hamdan points out that water has a pH of 7. (Is it all starting to come back now?)
Image: @sansceuticals
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How pH Relates to Skin
Different organ systems perform best at certain pHs. When they're functioning at the optimal pH, they achieve homeostasis or stability, Heskett says. Skin has a thin, protective layer on its surface called the acid mantle. This acid mantle is made up of sebum (free fatty acids) excreted from the skin's sebaceous glands, which mix with lactic and amino acids from sweat to create the skin's pH, says skin care expert Kat Burki.
Most experts we spoke to say the ideal skin pH is slightly acidic to ward off bacteria and toxins, around 5.5. However, Heskett points out that studies have now shown that the most natural pH for skin is 4.7. "At 4.7, the skin has optimal barrier protection, moisturization and scaling," she explains. "Additionally, this pH does the best job at keeping the resident bacteria (the good bacteria) attached to the skin surface. At higher pH's this bacteria is more easily dispersed, which leaves skin unprotected."
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Maintaining Skin's Optimal pH
Our bodies are capable of keeping a balanced pH, but choosing the wrong skin care products can throw those systems off and cause issues. NeoStrata training manager Patricia Clare says that if a product is too alkaline, it can strip skin of protective oils, leaving it dry, irritated and vulnerable. It can also cause skin to overproduce oil to make up for what was lost, which can result in sebum "flooding" the surface of the skin. Liz Earle facialist and brand ambassador Sarah Carr adds that too much alkaline can damage the barrier function of skin and lead to decreased antibacterial defense, especially in people suffering from dermatitis or those who have sensitive skin. Skin that is too alkaline also tends to age faster, Burki says.
Conversely, having a product that is too acidic isn't good, either, even though skin's optimal pH is acidic. Too much acidity might not be tolerated by skin and can leave it irritated, red, blotchy and tingly.
Be aware that pH doesn't stop with skin care. There are numerous things that can impact skin's pH, like pollution, sun, water, smoking and even air, says Clare. What's more, lifestyle choices and diet can play a role.
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Choosing Products With the Right pH
Using products with the right pH is important for all skin types but it's particularly important for those with sensitive skin, because they'll show the issues first, Clare says. "By respecting the delicate pH of our skin, we are able to really get great results from our skin care and do so in a non-offending way," she says.
In regards to skin care products, pH matters in everything from cleansers and moisturizers to toners and serums. It's key to strike the balance of cleansing without stripping. "pH balanced cleansers and toners are slightly alkaline because alkaline molecules bind to dirt and accumulated oils you want to wash off," Carr says, adding that most of the products on the market today should have a pH balanced formula. If cleansers are too alkaline, they can irritate skin — which is why you shouldn't wash your face with any old bar of soap because they have a pH of 8 or higher.
There are occasions when it's beneficial to use more acidic products than usual, such as vitamin C serums and acid peels. When using acidic products, Hamdan recommends making sure all other products used on the face are pH balanced at around 5 to counteract the negative effects.
Read on for some of our top skin care picks that won't disrupt skin's optimal pH.
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Cosrx
Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser, $12 at Ulta
Thinking about our mini chemistry lesson, we can see that a cleanser with a low pH is a good thing because it means the product is more acidic to help maintain skin's optimal pH. This cleanser contains botanical ingredients like tea tree to purify, manage oil and refine pores without disrupting skin's moisture balance. That means there won't be any uncomfortable, tight feeling after cleansing.
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Mila Moursi
pH Balancing Toner, $85 at Space NK
Gone are the days when harsh astringents would suck the moisture from skin and leave it crying out for nourishment. The new breed of toners help balance skin and enable other products to function at their best. This toner is on the pricier side, but it's worth the splurge. Sweep a soaked cotton pad on the face and neck for smoother, clearer skin.
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Allies of Skin
Fresh Slate Brightening Cleanser + Masque, $42 at Dermstore
There's no need to test the pH of this multitasking product. Allies of Skin reports that it has a pH of 4.3 to 4.8. In addition to helping skin function at its optimal pH, the product brightens and reduces redness, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. Apply it to damp skin to use it as a cleanser. For a mask treatment, put it on dry skin for 10 minutes before rinsing.
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Malin+Goetz
Vitamin E Face Moisturizer, $50 at Space NK
Most of us search for moisturizers that don't leave skin feeling greasy, but we should also pay attention to the pH. This residue-free formula fits the bill. It's suitable for all skin types, balances skin's pH, doesn't block pores and won't mess with foundation.
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Drunk Elephant
Pekee Bar, $28 at Sephora
This is not a standard bar of soap. In fact, it doesn't contain soap at all. It's crafted out of virgin marula oil and blueberry extract, which provides skin with a sufficient cleanse without compromising the protective barrier or stripping it, thanks to a pH level of 6.51. If you're looking for more products, Drunk Elephant's entire skin care range is pH balanced.
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Make P:rem
Safe Relief Moisture Toner, $28 at Glow Recipe
This alcohol-free toner has a low pH (a good thing) and actually helps soothe and calm irritated skin. A combination of glycerin, red seaweed and bergamot oil boost radiance and moisture, giving skin that coveted bounce.
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Glossier
Milky Jelly Cleanser, $18 at Glossier
There are many Glossier products that have earned the brand legions of dedicated fans and this cleanser can probably account for a fair number of them. The lightweight milky jelly texture and the fact a quarter of the water content was replaced with rosewater are two reasons it's a popular pick. It's powerful enough that it removes makeup on dry skin (except waterproof) but it's still soothing and conditioning.
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Beauty Bioscience
The Balance pH Balancing Cleanser, $35 at Bergdorf Goodman
Happy skin is balanced skin. Use this cleanser morning and night to maintain a balanced pH. The formula is potent enough to remove dirt, oil and makeup but won't compromise skin's barrier. Faces are left conditioned, bouncy and nourished without any greasy residue.
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Sans Ceuticals
pH Perfect Body + Hand Wash, $26.71 at Sans Ceuticals
Bodies are no different than faces when it comes to pH and the wrong body washes can strip skin of moisture. This ceramide-rich formula nourishes while leaving skin's acid mantle intact. Keep one bottle in your shower caddy and one by the sink to wash hands — you won't have to constantly put on hand cream when using this pH-balanced, sulfate-free formula.
