Three fashion capitals down. One to go, as we’re only just catching our breath after what has perhaps been the most whirlwind Milan Fashion Week in decades.
Kicking off MFW was Kim Jones at Fendi, with guests ushered into a space filled with XL Fendi it-bags sculpted out of white plaster, before models sashayed their way around the space wearing a colour-block collection of sophisticated separates and sheaths cut close to the body. Alberta Ferretti, the grand dame of Milanese fashion, gave us a breezy collection of silk, flowing organza and satin. Glamour was high on the agenda at Roberto Cavalli, in stark contrast to the Diesel show which was held in the middle of a rave, complete with around 7,000 people in attendance. Max Mara’s delightfully wearable collection boasted a color palette of neutral khaki, pistachio green, faded blue, mustard yellow and subtle pinks. Workwear jackets were paid with ultra-feminine ensembles at Prada while at Moschino, four stylists paid homage to Franco Moschino’s iconic designs from 1983-1993. Moody stares from the models were changed to grins going from ear to ear at Emporio Armani. Peter Hawkings was soon making his debut as Tom Ford’s creative director, presenting an ultra-luxe collection for someone who has somewhere fabulous to go, which ultimately proved Hawkings to be perfect successor to the Tom Ford label. Rainfall forced Sabato de Sarno’s open-air Gucci debut to head indoors, where the designer wiped the slate clean and delivered a plethora of reinvented classics for the storied Italian fashion house. Donatella Versace transported us back to the 60s at Versace (complete with a show-stopping last look won by none other than Claudia Schiffer) and it was an album of greatest monochromatic hits at Dolce & Gabbana. Matthieu Blazy’s latest offering at Bottega Venta gave us unexpected yet refined silhouettes and Maximilian Davis served up a modern and contemporary spring wardrobe for the Ferragamo customer. Closing out the festivities, the maestro of Italian fashion that is Giorgio Armani gave us yet another absolute masterclass in sophistication.
Look no further for an unbiased take on what Milan Fashion Week’s Spring 2024 season delivered. Go ahead and scroll down for a completely unfiltered take on MFW, all through the eyes of our forum members.
HIT | Ferragamo
“A pleasure to watch as always. Maximilian Davis is really starting to hit his stride at the brand now.” [LadyJunon]
“His best collection yet for the house. It’s crisp.” [VERNIQUE]
“I felt that every idea and detail (the embroidered F lifted from Salvatore Ferragamo’s signature, the ankle strap on the sandals echoed in the leather collar detail of some of the looks, etc.) was well thought out and executed; the subtle bell-shaped sleeves on the tailoring looked very fresh; and the trail of very long fringe attached to the minimalist evening dresses was sexy and very chic at the same time.” [Kennnnn]
See all the looks from the Ferragamo Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Philipp Plein
“The circus is in town!” [Thefrenchy]
“Another season, another PP clown-show but always good for a chuckle!” [zoom]
“I don’t know who is buying this. I’ve literally never seen Plein IRL. The collection is atrocious with almost no respite.” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Philipp Plein Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Jil Sander
“A pity that the thieves who stole the new Balmain collection did not steal this as well…” [jeanclaude]
“Jil Sander was never this conceptual, and certainly never contrived. Lucie and Luke Meier either don’t know or don’t care about the spirit of the brand.” [Kennnnn]
“The bling just don’t go well with the clothes. It only cheapens the whole collection.” [Gazillion]
See all the looks from the Jil Sander Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Ferrari
“What a waste of money.” [VERNIQUE]
“Ferrari? Looks more like a Fiat 500 painted in red…” [jeanclaude]
“I really wonder what’s the purpose of the existence of this line. Was it ever explained? It’s very difficult for me to comment on this collection because it’s a whole lot of nothing and I don’t understand where it’s meant to live…” [Thefrenchy]
See all the looks from the Ferrari Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Bottega Veneta
“The moment Matthieu Blazy tries to be avant-garde he fails.” [jeanclaude]
“My problem is that Blazy over conceptualizes. He needs to be more instinctive, to know how to stop adding details over details over details. It could have been a really great collection if he hadn’t added a few extra coats, a few dresses and trousers with different lengths and so on.” [GivenchyAddict]
“Once again, too conceptual, too heavy-handed, and far too many competing ideas.” [Frederic01]
See all the looks from the Bottega Veneta Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Missoni
“Got a soft spot for Filippo Grazioli’s Missoni and he always delivers.” [tourbillions]
“The nipples, super-mini dresses and the orange is a bit tacky, but delightfully so. It’s fun and a bit stupid.” [LadyJunon]
“Lovely! It’s very easy to understand, but it’s such a strong offering that I don’t see it as a disadvantage. Everything here is wearable and stylish in the best way possible. I hope it sells because Filippo clearly deserves to be successful.” [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Missoni Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Dolce & Gabbana
“Very sexy and effortless.” [tourbillions]
“May just be my most FAVORITE of collections during MFW, in all honesty! Absolutely love every last thing that I’m seeing – love the monochrome, the sheer fabrics mixed with the lingerie, the polka dots, the heels, the casting and the thought of this potentially photographed by Steven Meisel for the campaign.” [vogue28]
“I love the fact that it’s a streamlined collection. Looks fabulous. Who would have thought?” [Scotty]
See all the looks from the Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Tom Ford
“It’s a very good debut from Peter Hawkings. It’s more focused and builds on the TF lexicon, those velvet pants suits will sell very well and be copied a lot.” [disco54]
“LOVE IT! There’s everything we love about Tom Ford in this collection.” [DK92]
“Massively thrilled Peter Hawkings didn’t shy away from the quintessential Tom Ford aesthetic, and kept this whole collection on-brand, from first to last look. Tom Ford, will always and forever, be a brand that does not need a rebrand of ANY sort. Very much a fan, it’s just all so chic, sleek and sexy…” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Tom Ford Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Gucci
“So underwhelming and terribly boring. There’s no signature, no discerning elements that separate these clothes from everything else out there at the moment.” [Frederic01]
“I’m disappointed. These are just clothes and nothing more, there’s no identity. I never liked Alessandro Michele’s aesthetics but he at least had something new to propose for the brand.” [Danilo Braz dos Santos]
“Not that far from what I was expecting: very commercial. There was nothing really bad, but nothing to gush about. It’s clothes ready to hit the stores. I hope Sabato de Sarno can stretch himself more here as time goes by.” [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Gucci Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Versace
“Donatella knows how to make a woman look and feel good. Wow!” [prylvi]
“Literally the best fashion show since the whole fashion month started! The models, the clothes, the hair, the makeup and Claudia… OMG, what a GODDESS!” [Zorka]
“I am thoroughly able to appreciate how much of a departure this feels from recent Versace collections (even down to the beauty styling, which I thought was flawless). For me, Donatella going down the whole 1960s route feels fresh, loved all the mini-dresses, the checkerboard motifs and just about every single dress towards the end. Even the show space felt like a total breath of fresh air!” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Versace Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Max Mara
“Gorgeous. It’s very consistent with Max Mara’s simple and relaxed luxury. The color diversity and color blocking is stunning.” [GoldenPetals]
“Luxurious and timeless but updated with the current time. Ian Griffiths keeps delivering everything that I want from Max Mara. The color palette is delicious and choosing Tonne Goodman to style for the show is the best decision Ian has ever made. Another hit from Max Mara.” [THD96]
“It’s so slick and luxurious. I love the proportions and the color palette.” [GivenchyHomme]
See all the looks from the Max Mara Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | MM6 Maison Margiela
“It’s very chic and looks expensive for a diffusion line.” [FiLeReD]
“It’s very Margiela for Hermès in spirit, no? I like it very much. This is superior to 99.9% to what we saw in NYC and London while being in more of the same positioning.” [Lola701]
“So smart, so chic, so slick. It’s so good. This is what most of NYFW wanted to achieve but they have subpar hands to handle fine simplicity like this. I mean everything is so delicious here but I love that dress look 14. It’s simple yet so complex.” [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Moschino
“JESUS CHRIST. Katie Grand’s part is one of the most TRAGIC things I’ve ever seen in my life!” [DK92]
“Carlyne is the saving grace of this mess of a show. No one literally asked for this.” [TaylorBinque]
“If I were the owner of Moschino, I would be crying and begging on my knees for Jeremy Scott to come back…” [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Moschino Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Prada
“Absolutely in love with this collection! Very surprised! I need to see this in person, the details look exquisite. It feels more like one cohesive, solid collection than most of their recent ones.” [Joromana]
“Really tightly edited collection. A concise vision.” [Nimsay]
“It’s a great collection. This is the best collection that I’ve seen coming out of this Miuccia and Raf collaboration. My favorite looks are the pastel ones. They’re quite chic and reminded me of the former glorious Prada. And the sheer numbers are also great.” [THD96]
See all the looks from the Prada Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Alberta Ferretti
“Light, breezy, another great collection from Ms. Ferretti!” [Ruito]
“Italian Ralph Lauren. Love the timelessness of this and it feels perfect for a Roman Summer Holiday. So many easy no-brainer separates. Finely made sheer gowns – which is her signature. The waist coat with slacks is perfect. Lovely.” [Nimsay]
“Typical Alberta Ferretti in the best possible way. So romantic & dreamy! Her customers are going to eat this up.” [bluestar]
See all the looks from the Alberta Ferretti Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Emporio Armani
“Gorgeous color palette.” [Nimsay]
“I absolutely adore him. Bravissimo, maestro! Bright, beautiful сlothes and fantastic sense of color! He absolutely knows for whom he makes clothes and always feels it.” [HelgaZ]
“Another season and another collection from Armani which just flows oh so beautifully, from start to finish. I love how we start with the muted colour palette, and then ease into the greens, purples and we then conclude with Armani’s signature pink. Flawless!” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Emporio Armani Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Fendi
“I Fendied of boredom here…” [jeanclaude]
“Kim Jones really has no clue on how to do womenswear. Please, fire him and get someone else with skills.” [Creative]
“It’s getting tired and sad to witness every new season how constantly this guy is ruining Fendi. He has no clue how to dress a woman and make her shine. Hopeless. Please. please let him go and bring a skilled womenswear designer back.” [VERNIQUE]
See all the looks from the Fendi Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Blumarine
“I feel like Nicola Brognano can do better than this…” [Lola701]
“Disappointing. Last season was so much better.” [RedSmokeRise]
“Did they get a budget cut or something? This feels worlds away from his other shows (which were great, absolutely loved last season especially). There’s some gorgeous stuff but the styling is really boring and set even drier.” [gossiping]
See all the looks from the Blumarine Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Diesel
“What a mess.” [matheus_s]
“It just doesn’t do anything anymore. Yeah there’s some great textile potential but this is just a mess of so many different ideas and yet it’s once again the same thing they’ve been doing since the start.” [Cocteau Stone]
“This collection is stressed, everything is on the verge of a burnout, overworked, picked and plucked.” [Norden]
See all the looks from the Diesel Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Roberto Cavalli
“There’s no way I’m gonna hate on this. It’s true to the DNA of Cavalli, with plenty of desirable pieces.” [GoldenPetals]
“It’s a good collection from Fausto. He has found the perfect way to mix his tacky ways with a Cavalli sensibility. It’s sensual, well styled and quite efficient.” [Lola701]
“Glamorous, sexy, well made – his first powerful collection for the house.” [TianCouture]
See all the looks from the Roberto Cavalli Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Etro
“I really think Marco de Vincenzo is lost at Etro. I don’t know but there is something missing. The charm. The elegance. The bourgeois.” [TaylorBinque]
“It lacks focus and real direction. It really goes all over the place. The styling is terrible.” [Lola701]
“The styling is horrendous. He needs to go back to last season.” [LadyJunon]
See all the looks from the Etro Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Del Core
“I love how crisp and down-to-earth this collection is. Especially the closing look is wonderful, I want to touch it and investigate the simple cut and the fabric. The bags are also interesting, they feel like an organic part of the look and that’s a serious achievement for such a young brand.” [perhydrol]
“This was so good! I think Daniel Del Core is brilliant and I was so much looking forward for his collection. I love most of it. It all works well and it’s cohesive and seems to be perfectly executed.” [WAVES]
“This is so chic. Experimental without being overt. It’s the little touches. Like the front tucks of the tailoring jackets. Great color palette as well.” [youthinasia]
See all the looks from the Del Core Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Bally
“This brand is doomed – and lost forever.” [FiLeReD]
“This is just atrocious. Basics can be good but the cut of those clothes is literally worse than Phillipp Plein.” [Lola701]
“This is just a new level of bad for this season. Literally looks like a supermarket’s in-house clothing line. I appreciate Simone Bellotti had limited time but taste is taste.” [HazJW]
See all the looks from the Bally Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Giorgio Armani
“The quality of those pieces is insane…” [Lola701]
“I like it, as usual. Slightly outside of his usual offer IMO but also very him.” [WAVES]
“It’s Giorgio Armani doing exactly what Giorgio Armani does best, and under no circumstances can I hate on him for producing such a collection. It’s flawless from start to finish, and despite my love for those Armani blues and soft pinks, it’s the combination of the gold and grey which cements my love for this collection!” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Giorgio Armani Spring 2024 collection.
