All the Hits & Misses of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2024
IMAGE: IMAXTREE

All the Hits & Misses of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2024

That’s a wrap on Paris Fashion Week’s Spring 2024 season, and fashion month is now complete. 26 days, 4 fashion capitals, 2 continents and 1 whole season of pure fashion thrills, excitement, grand finales and fresh starts.
Opening up Paris was Peter Do, who ventured from New York to showcase his wears within the French capital for the very first time, delivering a collection of cropped blazers, deconstructed tailoring and sheer blouses. Next up was Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior, where the designer gave a stark (and slightly haunting) feminist statement in collaboration with artist Elena Bellantoni. Anthony Vaccarello was soon unveiling a re-do of the iconic safari look at Saint Laurent, first made famous by Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent back in 1968. The look was updated in the chicest way possible, with gloves, bangles, statement earrings and killer heels finishing off each look. At Courrèges, models walked on friable concrete and just two weeks after Balmain’s collection was stolen, Olivier Rousteing gave us a lesson in volume and sculpture (as well as… resilience). Chinos, denim and stripes were on the agenda at Dries Van Noten – “normal clothes” as the designer himself called them. For spring, Julien Dossena is dressing the Rabanne woman as a warrior, dripping in chain mail (because, what else?). Gabriela Hearst was soon taking her final bow (and dance cue) as creative director of Chloé, going out with a bang by finishing off the brand’s River Seine-set showcase with a live performance from Brazil’s legendary Mangueira samba school. Rick Owens made sure he gave us a show we won’t forget quickly, with models looking otherworldly in his designs, complete with fog cannons engulfing the Palais de Tokyo. Daniel Roseberry revisited an Elsa Schiaparelli signature: the lobster, asking Kendall Jenner to close his Schiaparelli offering wearing a full lacquered fingernail dress. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson focused on altering proportions and Yohji Yamamoto proved black will always be in fashion. Tailoring met athleisure (and technology) at Coperni, models walked through a makeshift meadow at Hermès and a standing ovation was awarded to Sarah Burton as she rounded out her tenure at Alexander McQueen. Nicolas Ghesquière paid homage to the ultimate Parisian woman at Louis Vuitton, evoking Vuitton’s spirit of travel ideology and immersing guests within a room draped in vivid orange fabric. Mugler’s show wasn’t shy of Insta-worthy moments while the full genius of John Galliano was on display at Maison Margiela. Virginie Viard, always one to be rounding out the fashion festivities, foresees a youthful and optimistic spring season ahead, full of sequins, florals, lace and pastel-colored tweeds.
Go ahead and scroll down for a completely unfiltered take on Paris Fashion Week’s Spring 2024 season, all in accordance with members of theFashionSpot forums.

MISS | Schiaparelli

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I find it quite tacky and not fun at all. There are a lot of things I absolutely hate about it, from the pieces to the styling.” [Lola701]
“Yeah I think he went overboard with the camp. It looks a bit like glorified Moschino? I think that’s the audience he’s going for. People who want a traditional silhouette while still convincing themselves that they’re ‘mAkInG a StAteMeNt'” [GoldenPetals]
“The opening is the worst part. The unbuttoned skirts section was awful. The sliced skirt with bustier was terrible. The draped pieces were pretty good but the heavy fabrics weighed them down. [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Schiaparelli Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Loewe

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Too much rinse and repeat.” [VERNIQUE]
“It leaves me cold. Maybe it’s the sterile presentation.” [avonlea002]
“First time I’m not feeling JW Anderson’s Loewe (his own collection did better). I guess I’m always expecting something a bit more complex from him and this felt very… light and simple? Boring would be the best word to me.” [thiago]
See all the looks from the Loewe Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Christian Cowan

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Please make it stop.” [gallianostan]
“Go back to New York this has nothing to do in Paris…” [badgalcrush]
“Its so easy to hate this. Pure trash clothing, stuff appears literally cobbled together. Stupid gimmicks shown multiple times for some reason. No actual fashion here.” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Christian Cowan Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Lanvin

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“This is sad to see. Really sad.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Did they just give up? This brand has fallen so far!” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Lanvin Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Rick Owens

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I’m such a sucker for his Dune/Cyberpunk aesthetic. I can’t help but love it. I love EVERY. SINGLE. THING.” [GoldenPetals]
“Extremely well made and intriguing. Love the colors as well.” [Ihhbl]
“I do love the boots. They are fab.” [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Rick Owens Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Rabanne

IMAGE: VOGUE

“A strong combination of metal and finesse.” [VERNIQUE]
“It’s definitely the strongest Dossena’s collection at Rabanne so far. It’s such a fascinating collection.” [perhydrol]
“Damn. This is gorgeous. I think my favorite collection this whole season. What a great interpretation of Paco. I love how fantastical it is, while still being grounded and wearable. I can’t even decide on a favorite piece. But the one with the peacock feathers is truly something else.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Rabanne Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Christian Dior

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I will not acknowledge a collection presented on that set.” [gazebo]
“How are Maria Grazia Chiuri’s clothes always so drab, ugly, and unappealing? And still with the slogans!” [MyNameIs]
“I HATE it when fashion houses shoehorn political theatrics into their show to dress up a collection that’s otherwise fine on its own. Here, it seems very forced and distracting because it’s so irrelevant.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Alexander McQueen

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Damn I’m so emotional right now.” [prylvi]
“I love it. Fierce tailoring, so elegant. Great casting too.” [Not Plain Jane]
“It was an amazing farewell collection. Some pieces are stunning. The gold was a great surprise, the thick knitwear piece, the tailoring as always and that shade of red is perfect. The cast was also great. Well done, Sarah!” [WAVES]
See all the looks from the Alexander McQueen Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Givenchy

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I like it. Looked chic and some Givenchy codes were there. It’s a step up and I see some progress.” [Ihhbl]
“Probably Matthew Williams’ best collection. But something about the entire thing is timid and unconvincing. The chiffon draped dresses are pretty as well as the satin gown with the lace and chiffon.” [reese06]
“Did Williams get some ‘help’? A consultant designer perhaps? Because it’s the first time he fully understands what it means to be at Givenchy.” [yslforever]
See all the looks from the Givenchy Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Isabel Marant

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I find this collection terribly embarrassing…” [Lola701]
“Marant’s shows have looked the same to me for the past 8 years!” [plentyofhorns]
“Remarkably awful. The pace was sooo slow and everyone looked so miserable. What happened to Isabel Marant is really wild to me. Went from 100 to 0 real quick.” [TianCouture]
See all the looks from the Isabel Marant Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Saint Laurent

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Another sublime collection from Anthony Vaccarello, I’m a little lost for words.” [vogue28]
“A total YES for me. Amazing clothes, ultra luxurious, loyal to the brand identity but with a contemporary feeling.” [Ihhbl]
“Brilliant! What a sublime collection, sumptuous for the eyes. Its very mid 80s Rodeo Drive rich b!tch YSL but modernized in Vaccarello’s own way. Definitely one of the best shows of the season!” [disco54]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Peter Do

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I’m left feeling emotionless and uninspired.” [michael123]
“I must’ve deinfluenced myself because I’m not buying any of this anymore. Those pieces don’t really have their own identity and Peter doesn’t have an eye for colour. Every nice piece could be easily sourced elsewhere, probably with better quality.” [perhydrol]
“This looks very tortured and downright costume.” [Norden]
See all the looks from the Peter Do Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Hermès

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I love this, to me its the definition of quiet luxury.” [Urban Stylin]
“Impeccable, really.” [liberty33r1b]
“I wouldn’t change a thing. It’s so good, so luxurious and expensive. The leather work on the last looks is unretouchable. Great work and amazing casting!” [Ihhbl]
See all the looks from the Hermès Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Dries Van Noten

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I liked this. As a whole, this collection feels much closer in style and spirit to his work in the 1990s.” [Kennnnn]
“Lots of beautiful wearable pieces in this collection. Loved the colors and the styling.” [Ihhbl]
“Of course my man always delivers every season.” [Ruito]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Balmain

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I like how completely different it is to the rest.” [Norden]
“I’m surprised by how much I like it. It was almost charming, and I can see myself wearing some pieces. Look 5 is a simple but fresh take on the three pieces suit. The green top with the pink pants is a fabulous look.” [Lola701]
“I liked it a lot. It’s not always right, sometimes bordering on costume but the craftsmanship is just incredible. Olivier Rousteing loves his job and it shows.” [avonlea002]
See all the looks from the Balmain Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Marni

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“When did Marni become so clownish? Most of this is extremely difficult to look at. Such poorly edited pieces.” [GoldenPetals]
“The most confusing runway presentation ever…” [Lola701]
“All the work Consuelo did to be undone by this fool [Francesco Risso] in a couple minutes. This brand is going to broke if it keeps churning this sh*t out.” [disco54]
See all the looks from the Marni Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Undercover

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“In love with every thing here…” [yslforever]
“Jun Takahashi ate and left no crumbs. Stunning!” [helmutnotdead]
“Really enjoy this. At parts, it felt like he took Raf SImons’ Dior but gave it some humor and character – which is a good thing to me.” [Overindulgence]
See all the looks from the Undercover Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Courrèges

IMAGE: VOGUE

“What a fantastic collection, loved it! Sharp lines, feminine silhouettes, original use of cut. Overall, super clean and sensual too. Well done!” [WAVES]
“Very into this collection! His design language is very interesting and I love seeing him grow! Good for Di Felice!” [thiago]
“Courrèges is so hot right now. Incredible collection.” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Courrèges Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Nina Ricci

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“The more I look the more low-budget it gets.” [GoldenPetals]
“Hard to believe that Nina Ricci had money to throw away on this. Clothes for influencers with no real style.” [reese06]
“I can’t in good faith bring myself to like this. At the end of the day, they’re still cheap drag costumes, and at the end of the day, Harris Reed is horrendously untalented and does not deserve this appointment.” [gallianostan]
See all the looks from the Nina Ricci Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Maison Margiela

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“P-E-R-F-E-C-T-I-O-N.” [Ihhbl]
“Literally not a SINGLE bad thing about this collection. I want literally everything. The way he comes up with new ways to ARRANGE the garment on the body is so brilliant, and that’s not even getting into how impeccably constructed each piece is. What a serve.” [GoldenPetals]
“The only designer I care about! Everything looks sooo delicious and the menswear jacket/coats are just fire. Love it love it love it!” [Olaffo]
See all the looks from the Maison Margiela Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Rokh

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Absolutely beautiful.” [Ihhbl]
“Oh this is so beautiful. There’s something very NOIR about it. I think it reminds me of Casablanca. The cuts are beautiful.” [GoldenPetals]
“There are some elegant aspects to this collection, especially the repeated motif of the trench.” [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Rokh Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Chloé

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“The final dance was her best effort at Chloé.” [Tchi]
“Worst Chloé collection ever!” [liberty33r1b]
“So much leather for a spring/summer collection. It can work, but it’s so heavy handed here. Lack of any lightness or actual joy. Thank god Gabriela Hearst is out now.” [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Chloé Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Louis Vuitton

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I loved it. I didn’t expect such a calm energy, soft energy from Nicolas.” [Lola701]
“I loved it… it might be one of my fave Vuitton collections. There’s an interesting mix between the 60s and 80s here – with a touch of the 2000s in the corset and pants look.” [Overindulgence]
“Loved it. I feel like I haven’t seen this type of femininity in his collections in a while. The energy seemed different here compared to his other LV shows. It was soft but still experimental in nature, so it made the few misses tolerable.” [depordetioz]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Coperni

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Courrèges by Shien.” [LadyJunon]
“I find Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant’s fashion approach so obnoxious. No kindness, no softness, no poetry, no elegance, no romance, no art, no fragility, no chaos.” [IloveDiorHomme]
“It’s all so limp. Everything has a strange rippling or bubbling because the fabrics are either cheap or not appropriately utilized, especially at the seams.” [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Coperni Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Carven

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Nice to see Carven back!” [Not Plain Jane]
“I like every single look. A very strong and cohesive collection, there is no weak look for me. I like that it’s very clean and very wardrobe-oriented. It’s full of everyday pieces but with interesting twists to grab your attention.” [THD96]
“I think it’s easily one of the strongest collections of this season. It’s relaxed and sporty in a very fascinating way.” [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Carven Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | AZ Factory

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“No one asked for this.” [TaylorBinque]
“Why are they even continuing with this brand?” [tourbillions]
“Looking more and more like the Target collaboration we all collectively decided to forget. Not one salvageable look.” [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the AZ Factory Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Yohji Yamamoto

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“The kind of work only a master can produce. Bravo.” [dancv]
“Gorgeous as always. And very calming, particularly compared to what the fashion month has been giving to us. Love those opening jackets with the ivory sleeves and the gothic-lolita polka dots (which kind of look like the moon) for a strange dose of lightness.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Beautiful, as ever. A precious jewel in a sea of sh*t.” [gallianostan]
See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Mugler

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Trash. Next!” [gallianostan]
“Tacky stunts for Instagram.” [CommanderTMugler]
“I feel like this collection was only designed to have a bunch of work, slay, yaaas comments on Instagram and a bunch of snapping fingers at the show. No real fashion proposition.” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Mugler Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Stella McCartney

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“H&M?” [Mrs.T]
“Seems a bit all over the place, no coherence.” [Not Plain Jane]
“This collection bores me to death. Her fabrics always seem cheap to me. The last two dresses are straight up hideous. I’ve never understood her appeal, if there truly is one.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Stella McCartney Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Victoria Beckham

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“This is so messy even for Victoria’s standards.” [youthinasia]
“Some truly utterly bizarre things here. The panty knit bathing-suit, the jersey draped sack dress thing with gray knee-highs, the sailor references? Too much confusion.” [TianCouture]
“This is a mess. Possibly her worst. Is she trying to be avant-garde or something? It’s not working Vicky.” [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Victoria Beckham Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Balenciaga

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“This show felt like a farewell and I REALLY hope it’s true because, well, the trick has worn out.” [perhydrol]
“It’s so suffocating, so heavy, so cynical. Just stop.” [Machinegumm]
“Watching this left me in a state of profound sadness. It’s like a funeral procession for a moment in time, both disturbing and weirdly cathartic. I have no idea where Balenciaga can go from here, this show made sure that the ghost of the last years will hover around this brand for a long time to come.” [donyan]
See all the looks from the Balenciaga Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Valentino

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“It’s cold and repressed for a house with such a vibrant history.” [GoldenPetals]
“When you realize your collection is again boring and dull, so you throw money at a live performance at the show to distract people.” [90sFan]
“This brand has become such a pitiful joke. You have FKA Twigs and her clones in bodyshape-wear in a sandbox a models walk into the room like dolled up debutantes for the Vienna ball. The laser cuts designs reminded me of those wedding invitations that were popular 25 years ago. It’s high time for a change. Pierpaolo Piccioli is clearly and visibly at his wit’s end.” [VERNIQUE]
See all the looks from the Valentino Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Sacai

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Finally we see a softer side of Chitose Abe! Love it. I need these incredible black flare trousers with the matching striped balloon top.” [VERNIQUE]
“Definitely my favorite collection this season, practicality mixed with elements of sensuality and freedom. Bravo!” [Constructionist]
“The long lean trousers are delightful; the clean white section (that oversized vest!); the distorted fairisle sweaters and striped shirts; the sheer elements: it’s all so desirable.” [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Sacai Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Chanel

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“For me the worst part of Virginie is that every collection just merge into the other, I really can’t tell seasons apart, always the same silhouettes, patterns, pieces, etc.” [ReneSanchez]
“This collection is like an ugly cousin of Sonia Rykiel, designed exclusively for people with no personality.” [perhydrol]
“I can’t understand why Virginie’s dresses are so ugly, she’s worked with Karl for years and seems incapable of creating an attractive black dress. The collection has no inspiration or personality, it’s just clothes, worse than that, it’s ugly clothes.” [Danilo Braz dos Santos]
See all the looks from the Chanel Spring 2024 collection.

MISS | Miu Miu

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“Absolute trash.” [helmutnotdead]
“The amount of branding is actually f*cking insane.” [sussienmcswanny]
“Well this was a boring dud. The clothes mediocre, the styling trying so hard that it falls so flat even before one can start laughing at it. Horrible casting of blonde, white clones of nothingness and ZERO character. What a sad finale to fashion month.” [90sFan]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu Spring 2024 collection.

HIT | Ann Demeulemeester

IMAGE: IMAXTREE

“I really like it and it is a very good debut collection from Stefano Gallici. It was exciting, pulsating and it actually felt new.” [LadyJunon]
“This is by far the best collection they’ve done so far , and there’s real potential here.” [donyan]
“The collection is quite good, miles better than the train wrecks that this house had gotten us used to in the last few years. If Gallici continues to improve, I see hope for this brand.” [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2024 collection.

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