Some of the most indispensible pieces in a wardrobe are the ones that can be interpreted in multiple way, such as pieces that are designed to be versatile and elastic – like a reversible jacket or a skirt that can be worn as a dress.
But in some cases, the dual personality of a garment can express itself in more subtle ways: there was a black anorak in Ervell’s collection that shimmered when in motion, cut in a way that is reminiscent of antique men’s formal wear. Its succinct tailoring and a gather in the back gave the illusion of a tailcoat. While connoting ideas of formality or luxury, it kept its appeal as a simple anorak; easy, practical, with just a hint of the contemporary.
This could be worn over a tuxedo at a smart occasion and its lesser status as sportswear would be unnoticed. The garment operates between two worlds very effectively. This is the kind of sensibility found throughout Ervell’s collection. His continued elevation of synthetics and sportswear gives way to refined tailoring and classic menswear icons, a binary with each sides enhancing the qualities of the other.
There are wonderful and powerful details in the clothes. Some of the collars on the shirts have loops for scarves to be pulled through and worn, a nice touch of utility for the sake of luxury. The plackets, pleats, collars, and bands are functional and practical. Sewing notions gave an allure not usually granted to mundane construction elements. Neck bands and shirt plackets looked marvelous.
A checkered blazer which is usually a little stiff and boring remains sensual and desirable. Soft lavender denim heightened a new and bold aesthetic. The clothes move in and out of their conventions.
Ervell is keeping clear of the uber-slim silhouette that has been the vanguard of fashion for some time. What he is providing is notably less affected. The outerwear moves around the body rather than being intrusively clinging, it’s a type of tailoring that falls softly around the torso, and pants that are slim but not obnoxiously skinny. It’s a look that comes off as youthful and flattering.
There is a unique appeal to Ervell’s clothes, with a cool but anti-hipster vibe, a boyish attitude, a freshness of the ideas. He draws on a male archetype not yet appreciated in Paris or Milan but which is finding a voice among the new crop of menswear designers in New York. It’s in this way that his clothes become so thoughtful. Ervell has something to say and we’re all the better for it if we listen.
