Paris Fashion Week had an exhilarating start with Anthony Vaccarello showcasing his highly-anticipated debut collection for Saint Laurent and designer Olivier Theyskens making his return to the fashion scene, unveiling a new “elegant, wearable” collection under his own namesake label. Maria Grazia Chiuri made her debut as the first female creative director of Christian Dior (whose collection flopped, according to our forum members) and Jonathan Anderson continued his wave of success at Loewe. There’s no denying that Paris Fashion Week has been eventful and full of surprises as the designers showcase their various wares for Spring 2017. Without further ado, here are the hits and misses of Paris Fashion Week so far.
PFW Hits & Misses (1)
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HIT: Sonia Rykiel
"Nice collection, I'm happy the house is being run by a creative director that captures exactly what Sonia Rykiel is and delivers beautiful collections such as this." [GERGIN]
"There's nothing to say, this collection is awesome. I wasn't her fan when she started her tenure at the house of Rykiel, but she's been getting better and better with every season. Julie understands what Rykiel stands for and who is the Rykiel girl." [perhydrol]
"Maybe her most convincing effort. I really love it. Great proportions, great volumes and beautiful movement. I love that it's not sugary 70s. It doesn't look too much like a throwback. She played really well with the codes of Rykiel. I really like the lace dresses at the end..." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Sonia Rykiel collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Chanel
"Absolutely horrid. But the people with cheap taste will buy it...Chanel is just ridiculously overpriced these days." [gossiping]
"This is one ridiculous collection, it's like what people in the 70s would believe the future would look like. Hideous set, the two 'robot' models are just so embarrassing to watch. So dated, boring, pretentious and cheap collection from Karl. He should take a break and give his job to Alber Elbaz! BYE KARL!" [zacatecas570]
"This collection is all over the place...every decade, every season, every extreme...all thrown together. I honestly don't know what to make of it. The front slit skirts are a HUGE no for me!" [brooksie]
See all the looks from the Chanel collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Alexander McQueen
"Love this collection! Last season was quite underwhelming but Sarah is definitely back. The finale look is everything and there's so much to feast your eyes on in general!" [Nepenthes]
"This is the best collection she's done yet, I absolutely adore. Love the inspiration, shame that the shoes are not the best but everything else I love." [gossiping]
"She seems to be more relaxed with this collection...probably her best so far." [Caffeine]
See all the looks from the Alexander McQueen collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Balenciaga
"The power-shoulder is hardly a novel runway concept at this point, and when you take it away here what are you left with? Nothing worthy of a fashion show." [HeatherAnne]
"It's still not working for me. In fact, it's one of the worst collections I've seen this very disappointing season. I just don't get it. All I see is ugly clothing which is getting overhyped to the max." [[Piece Of Me]]
"Wow, that's some ugly 80s s**t. My god, I am shocked." [Morphe]
See all the looks from the Balenciaga collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Celine
"When you're Philo you get to throw a few pretentious art pieces in there, especially when the rest of the collection is so damn sublime. That wine color gown, the use of pale yellow, the entire leather skirt look...and on and on. Dream collection." [HeatherAnne]
"It's wonderful. Philo keeps getting better and better in the sense that her collections continue to get more and more challenging, strange, interesting and compelling. It's never easy the first time looking through...it takes some digestion - a second look through, going through the detail shots, etc." [dior_couture1245]
"This is great! Modern and interesting. How I want one of those big red studded jackets..." [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Celine collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Hermes
"Goodness gracious! What a total bore!" [dior_couture1245]
"Such a snoozefest, doesn't even ooze luxury." [Nymphaea]
"This collection left a bad taste in my mouth. I really do expect more from a house like Hermes..." [GERGIN]
See all the looks from the Hermes collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Valentino
"It's a fantastic collection. Everything is chic, beautiful and extremely feminine yet there's a modern touch that was needed at Valentino. I'm actually so happy for Pierpaolo because he's really talented and you can see it here." [perhydrol]
"Beautiful collection, as usual with Valentino, love the colors too. I think Pierpaolo did a very nice job for his first collection alone, I feel like he did something a bit new, where Maria Grazia just brought the old Valentino with her at Dior." [Zelda Zonk]
"This is the riskiest Valentino collection I've seen in ages and I have to say I love it! The colours are vibrant and there is a wider variety of styles than we are usually used to. It also feels more quirky in some quarters. It's almost clear that Maria Grazia was there to keep some restraint, which she has carried over to Dior (as well as the damn runway set!), so it's nice to see him explore a bit more. I am very keen to see how he'll evolve on his own." [ogepma]
See all the looks from the Valentino collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Givenchy
"Goodness! It's soooo passé and dated. Riccardo has been so off his game. I get the impression that he hasn't been interested in challenging himself in quite some time...and that never makes for interesting design." [dior_couture1245]
"Was that seriously a Givenchy show??? Jeez, Riccardo...you can do better than this!" [billiejbob]
"How uninspired which is quite sad because I really enjoyed his work. There is no passion and no joy in these clothes." [reese06]
See all the looks from the Givenchy collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Louis Vuitton
"I LOVE IT! I always love when someone is doing tacky post-modern French 80s stuff. This has a New York Stephen Sprouse twist to it/Or Jem and the Holograms. It's very self-referential (even more than usual) as he reinterpreted a lot of things from all his 2012 collections for Balenciaga. I love all the dresses in the beginning. They are Versace-ish and they look comfortable. I love the polka dot blouse, the look with the striped black and white sleeveless shirt and the look after." [Lola701]
"My favorite collection of him for LV. Much more grown-up and sophisticated." [gazebo]
"I too think it's by far one of his best outings for the brand. I love that it has more of a sophisticated, polished look, and there are much more ideas flowing around compared to that sporty/combat boot nonsense he's been trying to pass lately." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Miu Miu
"It looked really old. Like 1995 old. I get what she was going for but it just comes off as lifeless. I hate when she doesn't give Miu Miu enough attention. She has her lazy Miu Miu collections (Designed in 2 weeks), and her knockout collections such as last season and her collections prior to 2015. It's completely obvious which collections have more effort put into them. Unfortunately this one falls into the lazy category. This is like Michael Kors does Miu Miu..." [GivenchyHomme]
"This is so irrelevant and inconsequential. If Miuccia wasn't behind Miu Miu, would anyone even care about this brand? Or maybe it would actually become relevant if someone else was designing the collections because she's clearly not getting it done. When was the last time she produced something good here? Fall 2011?" [MyNameIs]
"This is so so bad. It's like Miu Miu for dummies." [FashionFollower]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Haider Ackermann
"The absolute best!! No one comes close this season, IMO!! This is fashion with a capital F!!! There's so much to digest and it's all mixed up so deliciously! There's both edge and refinement, a mix he had mastered over the years but weakened in recent seasons! I love how diverse the woman in this collection is! She can be punky at one point, sophisticated the next! There's a bit of rock and roll, there's a bit of the chic working girl! All these incredible ideas in one cohesive and well thought-out collection!" [ToniOrtega]
"He's always pushing boundaries and showing new ideas, I really appreciate that." [liberty33r1b]
"Seems like he is showing some more diversity, like it!" [Nymphaea]
See all the looks from the Haider Ackermann collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Christian Dior
"I guess we'll have two Valentino shows each season now... And I'm so tired of those embroidered dresses. As for the rest of the collection, I have no strong feelings about it either way." [Zelda Zonk]
"I thought YSL by Vaccarello was the most useless so far but Maria Grazia Chiuri succeeded to surprise me. Looks like a Red Valentino collection. Shoes are ugly. Lifeless collection. I heard so many people complained about how bad Raf was at Dior, I think they were wrong and I still think they are. I had a little hope that she would be good but no. I was clearly naive." [GivenchyAddict]
"Dior is kind of done. I mean the brand still has its prestige but the last designers since Galliano are really hurting the brand. A shame. I just can't figure out an identity for this brand anymore." [constanceMafioso]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Yohji Yamamoto
"Nobody does it better than Yohji." [iclawhands]
"Well, this is just exquisite. By far my favourite collection this season. He's still going strong after all these years." [Yohji]
"Wonderful to see red again in this collection! And yes, probably the strongest show I've seen by far. The silhouettes, the draping, everything is so effortless and so chic, and strangely enough in a collection that is probably Yohji's most restrained and controlled in a while. I admire the balance between color and neutrals, languor and control, volume and restraint, bondage and indulgence, sex and modesty. It's a collection that is almost on the verge of recklessness, tempered by a mastery of its various elements." [Uemarasan]
See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Nina Ricci
"Where's the attitude? Where's the energy? Because it's as lifeless as any other collection by Guillaume for Nina Ricci. The clothes are OK, but nothing more. They don't catch my attention in any way." [perhydrol]
"What a mess." [liberty33r1b]
"Still so dated. This time even worse, it goes to be the tacky wardrobe of rock stars' wives. Satin and leopard print combo!! How Dare You!" [Pricciao]
See all the looks from the Nina Ricci collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Mugler
"His personal best since he started! Compared to what he has given before, this collection serves up a lot more ideas, explores different silhouettes, and the mix of materials is interesting. It isn't his usual parade of tailored suits and dresses with some cut-outs here and there. There is finally a more evident design aesthetic present." [ToniOrtega]
"The black pantsuit in the last section with the ombre effect and the dress before that are maybe the closest thing to Mugler I've seen in a Long Long time! It really screams modern Mugler! He really needs to explore more of that because it's great. The collection is strong and it shows that he is more comfortable with the Mugler heritage." [Lola701]
"Although it's not my style I think it's great, it's sexy, modern and inventive." [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Mugler collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Acne Studios
"Someone had too many meters of printed fabric." [perhydrol]
"This is weird for Acne, I don't like, it doesn't feel Acne. What happened? The fall collection was great (one of my favorites of last season) and the men's spring was very good too, so what is this? You can follow the fashion trends without making the brand unrecognizable." [whitewine92]
"While I was watching the collection I checked the name of the brand like three times because I didn't believe my eyes. Super weird collection for Acne." [MayaStar]
See all the looks from the Acne Studios collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Junya Watanabe
"This is Junya in aggressive mode. As such, it's harder for me to process and digest. I understand the thesis here, the play with geometry and volume, but much of it is confrontational. This matches very well though with the punk aesthetic being proposed here. This collection is also a welcome antidote to the very frilly and feminine thread that seems to run through most of fashion these days." [Uemarasan]
"He is the best! He can do a theme endlessly and deliver each time! I love everything!" [Lola701]
"Can you imagine this collection in the hands of a lesser designer? I don't like the middle section where the Slavic slogan pieces take over but everything else is on point; I like that he went back to the core of his punk-themed collections." [Fiercification]
See all the looks from the Junya Watanabe collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Emanuel Ungaro
"Ugh. It pains me that this house is a sinking ship but that's exactly what it is with collections like this." [lelaid]
"I think the great mystery of 'how/why the hell he got this job' has been replaced by the new mystery of 'how/why the hell he still has this job'. Who buys this crap? It has zero presence in magazines and red carpet. Not to be crass, but he HAS to be sleeping with someone important because this doesn't make any sense." [Marc10]
"A bomber jacket with ruffles...arghhh, my eyes!!" [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Emanuel Ungaro collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Ann Demeulemeester
"This has to be one of my favorite collections so far this season." [chloesaab]
"He's really doing a good job continuing Ann's spirit in the brand." [iclawhands]
"I've been looking forward to this show since Fashion Month started and it certainly delivered! It's great!" [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Balmain
"Classic example of bad taste." [Nymphaea]
"It was just awkward to watch. Am I looking at Versace 2.0, the cheap/bargain basement edition? When you have some of the most beautiful models in the world looking uncomfortable, it's not very empowering or even worthy of watching. Plus I can't help but think with every look 'Kim Kardashian', and that's sad." [AustralianaBoy]
"The same color palette, the same kind of dresses... It's a shame to see Olivier stuck in this vision, he could do more. These clothes don't say anything, and a regular woman hardly would look good in most of these dresses, the cuts are very cruel." [whitewine92]
See all the looks from the Balmain collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Loewe
"He really turned this brand around and made it into one of the hottest luxury brands in the market... This collection was fabulous and equally as desirable and wearable as his previous." [GERGIN]
"Amazing collection! He is really proving himself to be a star. This is how to make a stale brand relevant again; avant-garde and utterly luxurious. The entire Loewe project has been a success and this collection only furthers that. He has managed to create a look that is consistent but open to significant evolution every season. I love that patchwork dress and the exaggerated jewelry that he has somehow made elegant and less gimmicky. The accessories and shoes are stunning too." [ogepma]
"Sublime. Loewe is the brand I look forward to each season." [Cosmic Voices]
See all the looks from the Loewe collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Isabel Marant
"Her least corny outing in years. I don't like the proportions, but the floral fabrics are great and when cut commercially will sell like hot cakes. I don't find her worthy of taking up runway space though." [HeatherAnne]
"The florals are particularly horrible. Remove all those pieces and the collection would be good, not great, but good enough." [lelaid]
"In terms of cohesion, it's all over the place! There is not one single message you can take out from this, there are too many differing elements!" [ToniOrtega]
See all the looks from the Isabel Marant collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Rick Owens
"His most feminine and beautiful work in ages!" [iclawhands]
"Oh...for me it's his prettiest collection in a long time (aside from that yellow blip). Perhaps not all that flattering, but when was RO ever about dressing the every woman? I really love those feather capes at the end as well." [Fiercification]
"Ugh so freaking good. Those ostrich feather capes looked SPECTACULAR live, probably my favorite piece of the whole season." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Rick Owens collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Chloe
"Such a good vibe. Even for me some things I can really wear. Excellent designer." [gius]
"A definite change from last season, it looks fresh and youthful, and surprisingly nothing swamps the models in fabric. I like it." [AnaD]
"Damn, I'm not a Waight Keller fan, but the first half of this was so bloody good, just didn't like the florals at the end. Nice to see a romantic collection on the runways, love the babydoll dresses, bow shoulders, and ruffles." [HeatherAnne]
See all the looks from the Chloe collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Courrèges
"I really like that they up the ante a little bit with this collection. It still has the youthfulness and wearability that made the first collections such successes, but they're tipping their toes into a more chic style. There are so many cool and desirable pieces, I'm dying over that leather coat on Ajak." [Marc10]
"I think it's a phenomenal collection! I get the feeling they designed pieces and put them together and not whole looks which I like for a brand not steeped in fantasy this works very well. I enjoy their approach of making great individual pieces. The red suede jacket and coat look heavenly." [VogueDisciple93]
"I'm really loving this collection." [TREVOFASHIONISTO]
See all the looks from the Courrèges collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Saint Laurent
"I can't believe I would miss Hedi. I much prefer his last spring collection to this one. There were great sets, cool music, cool girls in cool clothes. There's glamour, even if a bit Californian. This is just horrible, looks like a trashy Diesel Black or something, I'm speechless." [Zazie]
"It's completely inappropriate for YSL (Saint Laurent). It's repetitive lacking in ideas. There are too many looks being repeated over and over again. The one thing that really bothered me was the fit of the clothes. Everything looked poorly tailored. The difference in construction between this and Hedi is like night and day. The boob hanging out with the pastie was tasteless." [GivenchyHomme]
"The house is dead, at least for me. Hedi ruined it, but this feels like the final blow." [liberty33r1b]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Olivier Theyskens
"This is good. It's elegant, wearable, no gimmicks, doesn't pander to teenagers, no hint of any tacky, costumey mess. It's not groundbreaking, but I'd wear almost everything presented here. Glad to have him back." [mistress_f]
"It was really good and quiet, I get the feeling of the 60s from some looks, there's the New Look, too. As a whole this collection was an interesting fusion of inspirations and silhouettes- and it works because everything looks beautiful. It's not a bad thing that it's not groundbreaking, to me it's a really good starting point for Olivier." [perhydrol]
"I really liked this. After all these years he found a good balance between wearable and grounded clothes without losing his signature dark, couture-esque romanticism and staying true to himself and that's the most important thing to me." [george5]
See all the looks from the Olivier Theyskens collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Maison Margiela
"I still think that Galliano is not a good fit. Everything is halfway there. It's not minimalist or maximalist. It doesn't feel complete. I also hate that white sleek runway. I wonder how are their sales? The buzz has already died IMO." [Alto]
"As I've said many times before, the HORRENDOUS styling and hair/makeup takes away any value and creativity these clothes may have, and turns everything into a messy, cartoonish fanfare. It looks like a slightly upscale Meadham Kirchhoff." [Marc10]
"Seriously guys, this would be shown in a small fashion week in Asia, South America or wherever people would laugh about it. I am sick of people tryin' to find qualities in something that has no quality per se, because the great John Galliano is behind it." [IloveDiorHomme]
See all the looks from the Maison Margiela collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Lanvin
"I thought it was absolutely exquisite! I knew Bouchra wouldn't disappoint! I've never seen such a gorgeous blend of the designer's and house's aesthetics since Raf Simons at Jil Sander! You can definitely see Bouchra there and you can see the codes of the house as well! ... I think the best part about it is the whole collection was so French, so Parisienne!! The clothes are what I would expect a young Jane Birkin or Lea Seydoux would have in their closets!" [ToniOrtega]
"Incredible debut! I loved every minute of it. It was chic and feminine and of course Parisian. If I had to choose a word to describe it I would without a doubt call it effortless. Everything looked impeccably made and the styling was just right. It was surprisingly young as well. What a great start." [GivenchyHomme]
"Oh, I love this. So excellent. I hope Jarrar will gain a cult following at Lanvin." [Yohji]
See all the looks from the Lanvin collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Dries Van Noten
"Well, this is perfect. I love every single look. So elegant and 'rich' without ever being excessive. And everything looks so comfortable and smooth. The set is amazing as well. Definitely my fav collection so far." [mistress_f]
"Absolutely perfect. So many pieces I dream of wearing." [dsamg]
"It's really good, this collection just makes me happy." [liberty33r1b]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Jacquemus
"I like this collection, loud in its silhouette but demure in its styling! It has a lot of YSL references (circa late 80s early 90s) that I feel like this should have been the collection under the YSL name instead of the trash-heap of clothes Vaccarello did!" [ToniOrtega]
"Oh wow. This is finally the breakthrough, 'believe the hype' moment I almost given up hope to see from him. Incredible collection! It has the playfulness and the work with shirting and shapes he's known for but done in a much more sophisticated and intelligent way. It's beautifully crafted, great styling and a focused message. Welcome to the big league Simon." [Marc10]
"I think this is a well accomplished collection; kudos to him! I actually love this. It feels more authentic and less pretentious than his previous collections. Dropped most of the gimmicks and has finally produced something that transmits his message better. I hope he continues in this direction." [ogepma]
See all the looks from the Jacquemus collection.
Image: Imaxtree
