That’s a wrap, folks! Paris Fashion Week kicked off with Anthony Vaccarello showcasing his “train wreck” of a Saint Laurent collection, while John Galliano’s triumphant vision became more clear at Maison Margiela as his latest offering received a virtual standing ovation from our forum members. Clare Waight Keller showed her last collection as Chloé’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri showcased a “forgettable” all-blue collection at Christian Dior, Givenchy released a “greatest hits” homage to recently departed designer Riccardo Tisci, and Karl Lagerfeld shot us into space for Chanel. Here are all the highs and lows of the Fall 2017 season at Paris Fashion Week, according to our forums. Until next season!
Paris Hits & Misses 1
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HIT: Chanel
"This was incredibly chic! The materials are what particularly interest me, there is something that is fresh on what he did to them! We can always count on Karl and Chanel to give us a proper fashion S-H-O-W!!!" [ToniOrtega]
"I love this. It's a very warm collection. It put a smile on my face and while the silhouettes are not revolutionary at Chanel, it's quite focused and feels very timeless which is quite in contrast with what is going on in fashion right now." [Lola701]
"Karl had a rocket ship. He won fashion week." [mepps]
See all the looks from the Chanel collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Alexander McQueen
"This might as well be Prabal Gurung...Sarah Burton is not an interesting designer and her continually shallow interpretation of McQueen is - at this point - insulting to Lee's legacy. The pretty, pretty princess Couture look needs to stop." [dior_couture1245]
"This is a pretty weak collection to bear the McQueen name IMO. It's forgettable. Even McQueen's most commercial collections were not forgettable. I always felt like McQueen's shows and clothing told a story and this is literally just a bunch of well made somewhat pretty clothes. The last two dresses are more fit for a Cher tribute show than McQueen." [reese06]
"What. More medieval tapestry dresses? Haven't we seen this like 35409 times already?" [RedSmokeRise]
See all the looks from the Alexander McQueen collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Undercover
"Fabulous! It's dream fashion and I love it!" [AnaD]
"What a freakin' masterclass of styling. This is the perfect marriage between couture sensibility and real-world practicality. One of my favorites of the week for sure." [StoneSkipper]
"When fashion can still excite me and make my mind run wild and daydream... you know it's a winner. This is a fantastic collection, it's extravagant without being gimmicky, it's wonderful as a whole and incredible up close, the details, the styling - everything works. A true winner." [mistress_f]
See all the looks from the Undercover collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Louis Vuitton
"This is a luxury house, why does he feel the need to design such ugly clothes?? I don't get it." [liberty33r1b]
"This could be Coach... My god, Nicolas doesn't even try anymore." [Creative]
"I've always found that his pieces look quite cheap, in terms of colour, styling, fabrics. This just strengthens that opinion, it's bland and badly styled and those ugly fur things add in a level of tackiness that he really didn't need." [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Sacai
"This brand is pretty much everything to me now (and in previous years). So many strong, yet pretty looks (slightly Ralph-y/Americana vibe from some looks here, hmm yes!), with snappy, sharp accessorizing as ever. Love that velvety-sheer combo on Faretta...although must say the collection starts to plateau with denim section." [Fiercification]
"Pretty solid! The details are fantastic." [gossiping]
"Sacai! I think a good mix of Abe's clothes and Philo's would make a perfect wardrobe for a modern person." [madame_georgiana]
See all the looks from the Sacai collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Stella McCartney
"Collection for the little sisters of the women who dress in Celine." [IloveDiorHomme]
"Very boring." [AnaD]
"The finale was one of the most obnoxious things in recent memory. This hokey activist phony shtick is not working. Embarrassing." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Stella McCartney collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Valentino
"Pierpaolo continues to deliver. The evolution is subtle but effective. He is obviously not afraid of colors and he is more ambitious in terms of techniques than Maria Grazia. The details and the construction are amazing. It gives a new twist to that 'tired' Valentino silhouette." [Lola701]
"I absolutely love this collection. So incredibly beautiful and romantic." [mepps]
"Pierpaolo is really settling into his game, it's a beautiful collection and I have a feeling that he'll keep on getting better. I love the simplicity of his shapes, his ornamentation, and his sharp, punchy approach to pattern and colour. It's so refreshing to see something bold and graphic on a Valentino runway after seasons of pastel sweetness, and I like how much of a departure his look is from anything that the house has previously released. It's so well done, bravo!" [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Valentino collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Miu Miu
"Super Mario (un)chic. I really hate what this brand has become...and now the silhouettes are maxing out to mirror what's going on in MOR fashion hell. Sad." [Fiercification]
"I desperately hate the styling. It's angering cause there are so many great pieces here, and I really love the last part of the collection, but at the same time the styling makes me roll my eyes and ruins everything." [mistress_f]
"I miss the glamour, stop being zany and just give us a lovely collection again woman." [HeatherAnne]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Givenchy
"It's so wonderful to see labels actually paying homage to the legacy a designer has left behind instead of shooing them like stray dogs, as many houses are wont to do. This is lovely." [StoneSkipper]
"Such a nice set of looks, it truly makes you reflect on what Givenchy under Riccardo meant to the fashion world at large. It's very tasteful on Givenchy's part to pay homage to his legacy while at the same time it offers some necessary closure." [YohjiAddict]
"Amazing how they celebrate the work that Riccardo did for the house. The perfect way to end an era!" [Fotoholic24]
See all the looks from the Givenchy collection.Image: Courtesy of Vogue.com
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HIT: Loewe
"So many interesting propositions. I was really sceptical once he started his tenure at Loewe but every season his work gets more translatable into real fashion and real clothes. Such a relief in this barren fashion landscape this season. Absolute highlight." [Vitamine W]
"Best show in Paris so far! This was an amazing collection!! Utterly chic and beautiful!! My favorite collection from Loewe by Anderson so far!! That 36th look, the striped maxi-cocktail dress, looked so divine on the model as she sauntered on the catwalk!! Everything about this show is impeccable!!" [ToniOrtega]
"Fantastic collection, stunning! He does it again, Loewe is such an exciting brand now." [anlabe32]
See all the looks from the Loewe collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Balenciaga
"None of this is innovative, and none of it is desirable. This style of design may have worked for Vetements, but I don't think it's going to fly at Balenciaga. They will lose their celebrity clientele if this keeps on." [HeatherAnne]
"To me this collection doesn't make any sense. It's just about clothes, really boring and sad clothes. They've been taking designing too seriously. And I don't know what to think about the couture part, it's like a joke to me." [perhydrol]
"Those archival pieces need to go. They don't look well-made at all. Nicolas and his team reproduced Cristobal's work, too, but in their hands, it looked just as good as the original. With Demna, it just looks like designs by designers with less-than-perfect dressmaking skills." [eugenius]
See all the looks from the Balenciaga collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Haider Ackermann
"Fantastic as always! Great cast as well." [|PerfectTonight|]
"This is definitely my favorite collection this season so far, Haider never disappoints." [chloesaab]
"We have a winner!" [EstefaniaAbaddon]
See all the looks from the Haider Ackermann collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Elie Saab
"Absolutely glorious! Sheer beauty creating the narrative by itself." [lukevault]
"Very moody. Love it." [kenndale]
"Much better than last season! It's all a reiteration of his previous work, but it's very pretty. I really like the purple pieces, they really stood out." [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Elie Saab collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Christian Dior
"Terribly pedestrian and completely forgettable. Casting an army of tweeny girls made it only worse and even more unmemorable." [Vitamine W]
"I just can't understand why it's all blue. Is she that lazy or is she just uninspired? An entire blue collection is too much. It's the same pieces repeated over and over again. Her couture collection was a major disappointment and this one is no different." [GivenchyHomme]
"Holy sh*t, Dior to me should be glamorous/feminine, this is the stuff of nightmares. Also, totally generic and (thankfully) forgettable." [HeatherAnne]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Comme des Garçons
"Honey...She's baaaaack! This is what I've been needing from Rei for some time now! This is what I need in my life! This is inspirational and directional and, I think, gonna really affect fashion for seasons to Comme." [gazebo]
"I see ancient Venus statues, coral formations, Henry Moore sculptures. True artwork." [iclawhands]
"It's so irreverent and humorous and absolutely wild. I couldn't help smiling while scrolling through the collection, I really like it." [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Comme des Garçons collection.Image: Courtesy of Vogue.com
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HIT: Mugler
"Exquisite tailoring. Shoulder pads larger than life. Graphic. Brilliant example of designer understanding fashion house's heritage. He strikes the right cord." [lukevault]
"I loved it. Mugler is one of the few houses where this 80s trend is actually in their DNA and David's done a good job channeling that." [lelaid]
"I'm in love with this collection. The color palette is good, the silhouettes are graphic, modern and sharp yet you can recognize that they're Mugler." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Mugler collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Saint Laurent
"An absolute train wreck, possibly the worst styling I've ever seen." [Magic Spells]
"These are some of the most hideous, tackiest, absolutely ill fitting, sad excuses of outfits I've ever seen in my life. Atrocious." [mistress_f]
"Embarrassingly, laughably, monumentally awful, dated, ill-fitting and ugly. There are bad collections, and there's this. This is unacceptable to be presented under a brand on the level of Saint Laurent. This is something that gets people fired." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Yohji Yamamoto
"The way the pleats appear reminds me a bit of rock erosion... I could look at them all day." [MulletProof]
"It's beautifully done, and there's not a dull moment to be seen anywhere in this. It's sophisticated and cool, and true to house aesthetic, and the more you look at it the more compelling it becomes. Seeing this in motion would be spectacular." [AnaD]
"This is gorgeous! He is one of the masters of black so, seeing him doing what he does best is always delightful. It's complex but not complicated and the techniques are always mind-blowing." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Nina Ricci
"WOW! This is damn good. Thus far this is actually the best show for me, great pants, stunning coats, soothing colors, classy yet sexy dresses. If Chloe needs a true replacement, this guy is it. This is what Chloe should have been." [disco54]
"One of the best shows of the season for me. I could have done without the western references (the stars, the belts, the oversized pockets). But I LOVE the color palette and the tailored and sexy pieces. I really like what Henry's doing at Nina Ricci thus far." [HeatherAnne]
"This is his best collection at NR for me. It's a little bit messy in a way but the colour palette is beautiful, particularly the nudes look insane on the black girls, and even the bolder shoulders don't look clunky." [Fiercification]
See all the looks from the Nina Ricci collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Dries Van Noten
"What a bore. No one is asking for newness, but for something interesting or just good. This is as lazy as it can get." [Creative]
"The cast is awesome...but it totally eclipses the collection. Clothes? What clothes?? All my attention was focused on looking at former supermodels. I think this is a case when models are used to try to hide an uninteresting collection. An effective trick to deviate attention from the actual clothes." [jeanclaude]
"Dries has been phoning it in now for a couple of years. Same old, same old." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Isabel Marant
"Nice. Really like the knitwear, especially." [chloehandbags]
"Love it. Would wear everything. Actually I did wear that multicoloured sweater as a child in the 80s." [Les_Sucettes]
"This is one of the few times a designer did the 80s right, it's beautifully done and effortlessly styled. I hate the shoes, but otherwise it works for me." [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Isabel Marant collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Chloe
"It's very cute and girly. It's a good collection to go out on." [GivenchyHomme]
"It was really surprisingly good and cute. Clare knows exactly how to do great graphic and sharp pieces. This is why I really like this interpretation of the 60s. It's quite sad that it's her last collection because it would be interesting to see the next one since she finally captured the Chloe spirit without being too boring or too sweet." [perhydrol]
"I love the pattern on the last dress, and (like Mullet) all the embroidery on the sheer pieces. It's very cute and feminine, and mostly in keeping with the house's original aesthetic. It's a good collection to leave behind." [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Chloe collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Celine
"How does she manage to do what everyone else is doing, but do it so much better? This is as gorgeous as ever from her. Give me all the coats please." [HeatherAnne]
"I love this. It's much more connected to reality than her few last collections which is a nice thing since we know that she can go too wild with her clothes." [perhydrol]
"Phoebe shuts it down. I mean if people were going to compare this with Demna's, then she won by miles." [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Celine collection.Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Lanvin
"Horrible. All over the place!" [|PerfectTonight|]
"Damn this is bad, and exactly what they deserve for firing Elbaz." [HeatherAnne]
"This is so generic. As much as people thought Lanvin was kind of one note during Elbaz's later years, his clothes were brimming with romance in that chic Parisienne way." [FND74]
See all the looks from the Lanvin collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Sonia Rykiel
"It gets stranger as the show continues, but I found a few things that look like so much fun to wear. Idea's great, overall." [gius]
"It's so wild but I love it. There's strong sense of experimentation and I think that's what Sonia needs. The silhouettes are so beautiful yet a little bit tougher than usual." [perhydrol]
"This is actually a very Rykiel collection. She used to do very wild things in the 80s and I think Julie really referenced that era. It's very wild, very surprising but sometimes, it's good to go wild..." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Sonia Rykiel collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Maison Margiela
"Bravo, John did it again!!! Bags on the head, LOL, he does have some sense of humor. Just like the RTW edition of the spring couture." [Flea]
"John has finally found his footing at the house. It is very well edited, contextualised and the designs are really wonderful." [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Maison Margiela collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Jacquemus
"Jacquemus has lost his innocence but he is showing us good fashion. This is great, weirdly much more edgy than before but it's at the same time more appealing." [Lola701]
"I really love this collection. I guess he has grown a bit but this collection shows how well he understands figures and design. The proportion is extremely flattering. Actually it really brings me back to the fashion during 2000s." [TaylorBinque]
"Absolutely beautiful!! He and Josep Font of Delpozo are who I look forward to every fashion month!! This just looks incredible, amazing silhouettes with impeccable styling! It's both dreamy and wearable!" [ToniOrtega]See all the looks from the Jacquemus collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Balmain
"I tend to be OK with leather but this is just too much fur and alt-leather for me to handle. The cow fur is disgusting." [EstefaniaAbaddon]
"Who is buying this?!? It's beyond comprehension...just when I thought he couldn't do any worse, he did. He's really in a league of his own, I feel sorry for those poor girls having to wear these atrocities." [333101]
"This was DISGUSTING! I really feel sorry for all the animals that had to die for this. I hate Balmain, I hate Olivier. He really has no clue and his choice of music just proves it." [anlabe32]
See all the looks from the Balmain collection.Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Olivier Theyskens
"I think it's so chic! And I think it's better than the last collection, too. There's more hot blood here...it's a bit more aggressive and sexy. I simply ADORE that mint-green moire mini dress worn with the gloves, black tights and booties. Standout look of the season for me so far." [dior_couture1245]
"It's so refreshing to just see nicely made unpretentious clothes." [RedSmokeRise]
"The tights not being tight to the legs give me anxiety." [Creative]
See all the looks from the Olivier Theyskens collection.
Image: Imaxtree
