Images: Imaxtree
As quickly as it began, New York Fashion Week is now officially over. Everyone from Tom Ford to Brock Collection has shown us what we’ll be wearing next fall/winter (or more likely what Zara will next have featured in their store’s front window in a few short months). Whether you sat front row or watched the action via live stream, NYFW’s been a blast, despite the dismal February weather. In case you missed a few key shows, we’ve got the lowdown on the real show notes, straight from our forum members. Here’s what you need to know: The Tom Ford silhouette is more simplified this season, Ralph Lauren‘s still the true master of all-American fashion and Tomo Koizumi should now be truly on your radar (all thanks to Katie Grand). Sophie Delafontaine needs to quit stealing Nicholas Ghesquière’s aesthetic over at Longchamp, Carolina Herrera should immediately start scouting a new creative director and the Helmut Lang label needs to be put out of its on-going misery. Ulla Johnson should stick to what she’s doing with those fabulous prints and a very big thank you goes to Michael Kors for uplifting everyone’s spirits with the legendary Barry Manilow’s live rendition of his 1978 hit ‘Copacabana’ (something we never ever thought we wanted). Oh, and did we mention 90s supermodel Christy Turlignton made a return to the runway for Marc Jacobs? Take a look for yourself at all the hits and misses of the Fall 2019 season at New York Fashion Week, according to theFashionSpot’s unfiltered and unbiased forum members, who deliberated over each and every show. We’re heading to London next … so stay tuned!
[ Next: Way More Misses Than Hits at Paris Spring 2019 Haute Couture ]
Hits and Misses New York Fall 2019
-
HIT: Ryan Roche
"The color palette and the lightweight fabrics are enough for me to fall in love!" [Valentine27]
"It’s cute, it’s somehow desirable. I wonder if the quality is as exceptional as it is suggested. Good show." [Lola701]
"Beautiful use of fabrics and colors. Great casting too." [AnaD]
-
MISS: Dion Lee
"Some of this feels very 2014 Alexander Wang, the starting dresses are sloppy Tom Ford, and the sheers look like cheap McQueen." [AnaD]
"Givenchy Fall 2015 + American sportswear." [Lola701]
-
HIT: LaQuan Smith
"It’s my guilty pleasure. I kinda like it! I saw video footage and the energy won me over! It’s tacky, sometimes trashy and has a very Instagirl aesthetic but I can’t help myself. It’s my Cavalli for 2019!" [LoLa701]
"I think he's going to be a slow burner that is quite successful. Instead of being hyped and then dying out quickly. Great cast! Looks like that ASOS collaboration money is being put to use." [reese06]
"That bright red mini fur jacket is a necessity for fall. I like a little trashiness from time to time, and he does it well." [AnaD]
-
MISS: Sies Marjan
"Galliano on Crack. Hideous and messy collection with no original vision. Next!" [GivenchyHomme]
"Too much layering. When will he ever learn?" [liberty33r1b]
"That’s the most interesting moment for a new designer ... to see if he is able to move on from his first hit collection. And this is sad. Unfortunately, this collection tells me a lot already about the future or the non-future of this brand." [Lola701]
-
HIT: Anna Sui
"She's always so committed to color and pattern. There are some really beautiful pieces here, so much luxurious fabric and print! I hate the budget wigs, but everything else is lovely." [AnaD]
"The wigs killed everything. Such a beautiful collection, I love Anna Sui. Too bad she is not more well known in Europe." [GivenchyAddict]
-
MISS: Philipp Plein
"Money can't buy class but it can buy Carine Roitfeld ... " [Lola701]
"Tacky as hell. Too much of everything. Kind of like Victoria’s Secret. Ugh!" [Mrs.T]
"Forever21 never looked so good." [TYLERB]
-
HIT: Zimmermann
"One of the few consistent shows on the NY schedule, and one of the few worth looking forward to." [AnaD]
"Love it. Little hints of Cavalli and LV." [bonnevie]
"Consistency from Zimmermann. They and Delpozo (under Josep Font) usually made NYFW worth all the schlepping." [ThatDudeOverTher]
-
MISS: Helmut Lang
"Helmut Lang is a tricky brand as the DNA is very subtle and so attached to Helmut Lang himself. So everything can be very flat quickly and appear as any possible minimalist brand. They should just do the archives over and over, no show, no lookbook and that's it." [GivenchyAddict]
"Extremely poor. Everything looks like it will end up in a designer consignment shop by next season and will stay there forever. There's no heart in any of these clothes...they just look useless." [dior_couture1245]
"This feels more like a collector's closet than a collection. Too referential and heavy for Helmut Lang!" [TYLERB]
-
MISS: Carolina Herrera
"Cringe-worthy!" [liberty33r1b]
"Struggling to find one good look ... " [bonnevie]
"I think there’s a problem with Europeans going to American brands. By trying to make those brands edgier, younger or fresher, they just forget the DNA of those brands. I believe that a good designer can design anywhere but this doesn’t have the charm of CH!" [Lola701]
-
MISS: Coach 1941
"I would love to know who their client is. Because this isn't at all NY or LA., and I cannot think of any age group who would covet these items." [Joromana]
"All I see are layers over layers of clothes, like a never-ending onion." [jeanclaude]
"Overall, this might be his worst collection ever." [Lola701]
-
MISS: Prabal Gurung
"Seems like everybody in NY thinks they can play with color and volume like Pierpaolo Piccioli does but actually they can’t." [Koibito]
"WOW! This is Christian Siriano level." [helmutnotdead]
"This is comically bad ... I actually laughed out loud. I see an attempt at Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Alexandre Vauthier, Paco Rabanne, and it's all a big ol' mess. I can't stop looking actually!" [reese06]
-
MISS: Proenza Schouler
"I am just pissed. These guys just copied pasted Phoebe Philo's work with no shame. The knock offs are so obvious. I don't understand why this brand still exists." [GivenchyAddict]
"They just can't get it right. Never really have been able to, actually. Their work is just so textbook. There's not a single thing unexpected, surprising, fresh or unique here. Nor has there been in a long time." [dior_couture1245]
"As fresh as day old bread." [GivenchyHomme]
-
MISS: The Row
"Talk about failed coat draping. The draped coats and jackets look like they were unintentionally badly constructed and sewn; you just cannot sell that at the price level that The Row commands." [dodencebt]
"I used to love this brand but they're getting very, very repetitive. They really need to come up with something else." [Wintergreen]
"All I see is tents made of insanely expensive fabrics." [Vitamine W]
-
MISS: Michael Kors Collection
"It was so cheesy! The furs and the knitwear was good but overall, it was still bad for me. I love literal 70s collections. He is not the first one to do it and certainly not the last but his interpretation is not the best." [Lola701]
"Inspired by Studio 54 but made with such an insipid and vague connection to it, that the had to throw literally the '54' logo on some garments to let people know the main inspiration for the whole collection ... pathetic! I cannot picture Bianca Jagger here. All I see are boring 70s pedestrians on their way to oblivion." [jeanclaude]
"You know, I've seen a lot of designers making literal collections, but having a 70s/disco theme (which is already painfully basic as it is) and having the literal Studio 54 logo plastered on it is an achievement in itself. Well done, sir." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Michael Kors Collection collection.
-
MISS: Oscar de la Renta
"It's missing the flair old Oscar had. The romanticism, the sexiness, the luxury of the original. It's quite boring. And again, I wonder which of these Meghan Markle will wear." [AnaD]
"Doesn't look very modern. Not one exciting piece in the lot. Battenburg lace and puffy quilts, no thanks." [dfl-001]
-
MISS: Marc Jacobs
"Any vintage store looks more current than this mess." [dodencebt]
"It's a mess. You have everything from a very basic Prada look to the big volumes of Valentino with some Balenciaga here and there, both by Demna and Cristobal. There's some Chanel, Rochas and Dior, too." [perhydrol]
"Actually this show just sums up how bad and uninspiring this season at NYFW was..." [blusheels]
See all the looks from the Marc Jacobs collection. -
HIT: Jeremy Scott
"Believe or not, I like it a little bit. I would totally wear some trench-coats and I think that last gown is one of the best that have seen from him in a while." [ghostwriter10549]
"I can certainly appreciate just how clean, coherent and direct this collection is. Scott clearly has a clear inspiration this season and ran with it, and I don't hate it." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Jeremy Scott collection. -
MISS: Longchamp
"LV goes to New York." [ForTheImage]
"This is Vuitton on a budget ... if you cannot afford Vuitton and you want to, you can always buy cheap knock-offs at Zara, H&M, Mango ... so I don't get the point of Longchamp's strategy, trying to become the poor man's version of Vuitton; while being more expensive than their fast-fashion counterparts." [jeanclaude]
"Why do they show in New York? This boggles my mind, unless they just want to expand their market over there." [Lax89]
See all the looks from the Longchamp collection. -
HIT: Ralph Lauren
"What's not to love? A classic Ralph Lauren collection, filled with beautiful and timeless pieces. I think everything's beautiful, very luxe and absolutely love the black, white and metallic color pallette. Not to mention the setting of the flagship Madison Avenue store (quintessential old school NYFW)." [vogue28]
"I actually enjoyed it, he always pleases his core client who is the super wealthy all-American woman. It's a classic brand and they are good at that without looking like fossils." [Urban Stylin]
"Beautiful, classic clothes. Thank you, Ralph, for never going down the ugly Gucci road like other designers!" [liberty33r1b]
See all the looks from the Ralph Lauren collection. -
MISS: Christian Siriano
"This is a mess of excess. I mean, a full-figured woman in an iridescent pantsuit with a transparent top ... so painful to watch!" [Lola701]
"What the actual heck is the last look on Ashley? What actually is that?" [TianCouture]
"And he’s the new mentor of Project Runway. God bless those contestants." [Koibito]
See all the looks from the Christian Siriano collection. -
HIT: Telfar
"I've always loved the idea of Telfar more than in reality ... but I really like this. For some weird reason, I'm into it. It can be a black American version of GMBH (that I really love)!" [Lola701]
"I find it refreshing seeing new indie brands on NYFW. They give fresh air to a stale fashion landscape, with the same establishment brands which we all know." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Telfar collection. -
MISS: Khaite
"I can't imagine this translating anywhere in a woman's day-to-day life. I frequently look at this brand in stores but aside from the accessories and one or two of the coats, I can't imagine wanting to wear much of this." [SophiaVB]
"Somehow disappointed in this. Their latest lookbooks have been so modern and cool ... " [blusheels]
"This is totally different from what they sold previously at THE LINE; it feels like a sudden change from The Row/Celine minimalist style to some gaudy heavy cheesy style like Dolce & Gabbana that kinda of style." [kasper!]
See all the looks from the Khaite collection. -
HIT: Ulla Johnson
"The American Max Mara. Truly very few, other than Calvin Klein maybe, can interpret earthy colors as strongly as Ulla. One of the stronger offerings so far." [Benn98]
"I thought this was such a beautiful and well-thought-out collection when clicking through each photo on Vogue; very well executed, wearable and coherent. The prints and colors are absolutely gorgeous, especially when contrasted with the minimalist show space. A thumbs up from me!" [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Ulla Johnson collection. -
MISS: Tomo Koizumi
"Not sure what's his story and how he got Katie Grand to pull off this casting and use Marc Jacobs' store as the venue, but it's certainly not deserved. This is embarrassingly awful, childish even. It's great to support new designers, but next time let's pick one who can present a decent collection." [Marc10]
"Same materials and same technique for the whole collection that contains most of the ugliest dresses of the season. I agree, so not deserved." [Koibito]
"Lol no! We don't need a Giambattista Valli/Molly Goddard for NYFW!" [RedSmokeRise]
See all the looks from the Tomo Koizumi collection. -
HIT: Maryam Nassir Zadeh
"I love what she does and think her and Rachel Comey DO NOT get the attention and respect they so deserve; for me they lead NYFW. She should have a show in her apartment, it's outrageously gorgeous." [TianCouture]
"Totally agree, it feels very liberated. Almost like a New York version of old Marni, a bit more down and less precious. It's probably the only show I look forward to during NYFW!" [tatouejeremie]
See all the looks from the Maryam Nassir Zadeh collection. -
MISS: Brock Collection
"This is conservative and old in the worst possible way. I don't even think an older woman would want to wear this. Terrible collection!" [Lola701]
"You cannot NOT think of Chanel with those tweed opening looks! Also notice a hint of Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior with those khaki, white and belted looks. It just feels like an afterthought of a collection, all over the place and incoherent from start to finish. A weak and referential offering!" [vogue28]
"I think the Chanel influenced tweeds were a misstep and a waste of 1/4 of the collection." [HeatherAnne]
See all the looks from the Brock Collection collection. -
HIT: Area
"This is quite honestly one of the only shows I look forward to from NYFW, another stellar collection from the duo!" [GERGIN]
"I always liked them. This collection is great!" [entten]
"This is pure gold." [MetroMelanie]
See all the looks from the Area collection. -
MISS: Collina Strada
"There are so many brands doing this kind of fake rebellious, subculture-inspired fashion that it’s starting to look as stale as American sportswear or 80s-inspired Parisian chic." [Lola701]
"I agree, it's all starting to meld into one. This sorta mirrors Eckhaus Latta, which seemed to set the tone." [TheoG]
"I'm seeing less creativity and much more predictable fashion. I could have pulled this collection from almost any secondhand shop." [Jandrew]
See all the looks from the Collina Strada collection. -
MISS: Tom Ford
"This is a total disaster. This should feel like 'Tom Ford, the luxury sophisticated brand' but it feels like 'TF by Tom Ford', the diffusion line for department stores worldwide (free tote bag with every purchase). It's sooo basic, you can tell he doesn't care about fashion anymore. It's like his auto-pilot mode is also in auto-pilot mode!" [jeanclaude]
"Yikes this is terrible, especially disappointing giving last season's delicious luxe triumph. It doesn't even look very TF, those faux fur hats are very cheap looking, like almost all the fabrics used." [Marc10]
"I feel as if he just grabbed pieces from previous collections and sent them down the runway and hoped no one would notice." [kenndale]
See all the looks from the Tom Ford collection.
