Images: Imaxtree
As quickly as it started, New York Fashion Week is officially over. And over the past few days, designers pulled out all the stops for the Spring 2020 season. Looking for a quick breakdown? Tom Ford held his show in an abandoned subway station on Bowery Street, Jason Wu returned to the scene, Tory Burch played to her strengths, Wes Gordon proved his worth (once again) at Carolina Herrera, Longchamp needs to stop trying to be Louis Vuitton and Tomo Koizumi cemented his one-trick pony status. Per usual, Marc Jacobs closed out fashion week with a bang by storming the Park Avenue Armory, thrilling onlookers with his vibrant and eclectic collection. Now that the “week” has finally wrapped, our forum members have something to say. Check out which collections were a hit and which ones missed the mark.
Hits and Misses: NYFW Spring 2020
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HIT: Tory Burch
"It’s charming... I think the set really elevates the whole thing. It’s less heavy-handed in the styling compared to past seasons." [Lola701]
"I really like the collection. Actually, I always find some great pieces from her collections. It's weird that it's not 'fashion,' but I always feel like her clothes have a great balance of design. The fact that she doesn't try to become the next something is also great. And her products, compared to Michael Kors, are actually worth the money." [TaylorBinque]
"She's not trying to be anyone else but herself. She knows her strengths and focuses on them. There is nothing wrong with that as long as the products are good, which they are." [GivenchyHomme]
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MISS: Tom Ford
"This seriously can't be designed by him, it's soooo frumpy and dumpy. The color palette of neon is an eyesore, too. He should stick to what he does best: his renditions of late 70s disco sluts and coke whores." [disco54]
"This isn't worthy of the name Tom Ford, what a cheap mess. Was he even conscious when designing this?" [Nymphaea]
"Tom Ford has been running on autopilot for a while now; it's clear that he wanted to launch his own brand only as a source of income while he pursues other hobbies without wanting to come even close to the great designer he once was." [dodencebt]
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HIT: Carolina Herrera
"I personally like this a lot. It's feminine, elegant and fun as well. There are a few almost fabulous pieces like the second look on Adut." [apple]
"I quite like Wes' Carolina Herrera. It's fun, fresh, very lovely. Reminds me quite a bit of old Isaac Mizrahi." [Mutterlein]
"A solid offering for the spring/summer season, can't fault the majority of it. Not to mention how that finale look on Adut in the short yellow dress might just be my favorite look from NYFW so far!" [vogue28]
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MISS: The Row
"COS does it better." [FashionFanatico]
"They copied the infamous patchwork panels top from Kaisik Wong (which Ghesquière copied back in 2003); but done in an all black minimal style!" [jeanclaude]
"I'm normally a fanatic of The Row, but this feels colder than usual." [SophiaVB]
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HIT: Area
"It's a fun collection, the glitter reminds me of their old collection. When they started the brand, I really loved it because it was fun yet wearable." [Mathewthew]
"It has spirit, charm and fun... And in the middle of that, there are some great pieces." [Lola701]
"Such a fun collection." [phungnam96]
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MISS: Anna Sui
"Who buys this?" [FashionFanatico]
"Seriously, not to hate, but I always wonder who buys her stuff. She hasn’t been hot since the 90s and yet, the brand is still showing at fashion week." [Lola701]
"She could present a collection from 10 years ago as a new one...and no one would notice it!" [jeanclaude]
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HIT: Sies Marjan
"I actually think it was good and luxurious, at least not pretentiously gimmicky. Couple of trashy dresses, but the rest were really pleasant for me!" [dontbeadrag]
"Not much for me to hate here. Love the ruched detailing and the colors help in making this collection look luxe. Looks very easy on the eye and will probably sell well..." [Benn98]
"Controversial, but I really liked it." [RedSmokeRise]
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MISS: Pyer Moss
"American Vetements? No." [gazebo]
"This collection is way too heavy on current references, there’s Off-White, Balenciaga, etc. Also, if you have to have such a production like with Ralph, you’re making up for something. Love the message he’s trying to convey, but personally, I’ll take Wales Bonner and her chic refinement over this any day." [Will Ross]
"Too many references to current fashion. He should focus on himself and push fashion forward." [Lola701]
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HIT: Ralph Lauren Collection
"That opening look on Gigi is a killer. It's gorgeous. I think Ralph isn't going to push it anymore. But at least I feel like he's enjoying life and making shows more entertaining." [TaylorBinque]
"Traditional RL, nothing more or less. He knows how to satisfy his clients. I like him maintaining a standard of luxury in his garments, though. Opening look is nice." [perfect blue]
"This is so luxe and I love it." [Nomar]
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MISS: Christian Siriano
"As much as I love how he champions diversity and inclusivity, his clothes are whack and his taste level in fabrics is none. Like, seriously, can he at least hire someone to help him out?" [TaylorBinque]
"Quite possibly a new low for him? The 'menswear'...seriously?" [RedSmokeRise]
"I feel like he is still shopping his fabrics at Mood, always looking at his budget. It’s quite tragic. A cheap-looking, never-ending mess..." [Lola701]
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HIT: Khaite
"Finally something interesting at NYFW! Great collection." [RedSmokeRise]
"Fun show. I wish I could afford their clothes, they are beautiful and wearable." [HeatherAnne]
"Finally, something substantial among so much nothingness. Digging this quiet American chic. Even the set design and bags add to the spirit. All-around gorgeous branding. I hope she’s able to keep up the momentum..." [Phuel]
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MISS: Jason Wu
"He literally translated Prada Spring 2009 for the masses, but he failed to send across the key message." [TaylorBinque]
"Absolutely pitiful. I would expect something like this from a younger and less experienced designer. There is no excuse for him to present such mediocrity, especially at his age. He took many different designers and threw them into a blender and he served up a big glass of sh*t." [GivenchyHomme]
"It's not bad, but it's absolutely mediocre, especially in comparison with Prada." [apple]
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HIT: Tommy x Zendaya
"The clothes are nice, but what really sold was the presentation. What an incredible energy! A really beautiful celebration of the Apollo, Harlem and all its culture. It was just so joyful." [Marc10]
"I don't care about Tommy Hilfiger (never did), but I love the presentation of this show. I grew up right around the corner from the Apollo so this was fun." [mepps]
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MISS: Kate Spade New York
"Nicola Glass' first collection was fabulous. How could it get so bad so quickly? If she isn't a one-hit wonder, I don't know who is." [GivenchyHomme]
"A disaster. I like the plants as props, but when they had nothing to do with the clothes, it's ridiculous." [ghostwriter10549]
"A disappointment after last season's collection." [Sensation]
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HIT: Proenza Schouler
"Really love this! I think it's their strongest showing in a while. Reminds a bit of some of their earlier collections (Spring 2009 in particular with the 80s nods). It's more pared down and wearable, which is a good change, but still fresh and elegant." [Marc10]
"I love this collection." [caioherrero]
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MISS: Jeremy Scott
"I really can't tell the difference between his own line and what he does at Moschino. It's all just the same." [Nomar]
"Does he even need his own line with Moschino or even the other way around? Like literally WTF is going on with NYFW. LIKE LITERALLY what has happened? Cancel it all and let’s get to Paris or Milan!" [Will Ross]
"I wish I’d never seen this..." [KissMiss]
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HIT: Oscar de la Renta
"I wish there were more daywear separates, but I actually think this is one of its best showings where they were actually able to capture some of the spirit. I think the color palette and use of prints is more in line with the brand. Before it seemed like they were trying way too hard to court a younger customer. Very nice collection from them." [reese06]
"Oscar de la Renta is more jet set than Valentino. Great, sexy, nicely balanced. And I love how messy the lineup is. When Oscar himself was at the helm, you could see a caftan and next a new look dress and right after a Chanel-inspired suit. They did it exactly like that..." [Lola701]
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MISS: Longchamp
"The sock shoes might be one of the most atrocious things I've seen in the last few years!" [SophiaVB]
"Nicolas Ghesquière says 'Hi'... Longchamp Vuitton anyone??" [jeanclaude]
"Louis Vuitton resort collection. Marie-Amélie Sauvé has no shame to just give all the Ghesquière tricks to her clients. That's crazy!" [GivenchyAddict]
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HIT: Marc Jacobs
"Quite possibly my favorite collection by Marc Jacobs since Fall 2015 and Spring 2011. Everything about this feels very Marc Jacobs!" [GERGIN]
"The Daisy Gamble collection. Obsessed with this. Just wow." [TianCouture]
"I love it! A very beautiful collection from Marc. While I find it too retro for my taste, he did something very clever. The 70s for the most part were inspired by the 40s and I like that it almost feels like he designed it like if he was in the 70s and being inspired by vintage clothes from the 40s. It’s a joyful mess with a lot of desirable pieces." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Marc Jacobs collection. -
MISS: Tomo Koizumi
"Talk about a one-trick pony. Wondering how many seasons till he starts doing commercial clothes or completely fades away." [Melancholybaby]
"Is he being serious? Won't lie, I gave him the benefit of the doubt that this would be a departure from his debut line. Instead it's more of the same. This time without any form. Yikes!" [Benn98]
"It's not even worth it for me to try to understand his clothes. Literally tulle nightmare." [TaylorBinque]
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MISS: Brandon Maxwell
"I’m sorry, but this is literally Sears. I realize the menswear addition is just to complete the show, but all around this is a total yikes." [RedSmokeRise]
"OMG! Did someone actually have the audacity to present this to the public? It’s just unacceptable and offensive." [KissMiss]
"He is just so much hype that it's funny. His collections remind me of Bill Blass sewing patterns that you buy from the art/sewing store." [reese06]
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MISS: Prabal Gurung
"He is one of the worst designers." [dior_couture1245]
"Floral nightmare." [jeanclaude]
"The live flowers are the main attraction here." [Nomar]
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MISS: Elie Tahari
"This collection felt like it was stuck in 2002 to 2003." [Gazillion]
"Department store glamour!" [Benn98]
"This collection illustrates perfectly why the CFDA needed to cut the calendar. I don’t understand why instead of a show he didn’t organize a presentation in a more beautiful setting with more personality." [Lola701]
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MISS: Eckhaus Latta
"I REALLY want to love this brand and every season I expect it to be 'the' collection yet they deliver the same art school reject crochet projects with clogs on the same alienesque midland models season after season and it's like...OK, time to try something new!" [SophiaVB]
"Not loving this season. I prefer the previous collections that had this incredible womanly appreciation and tender attitude. This one feels a bit too trendy." [Marc10]
"Better, but still not good. Quite frankly, I don’t think these two have it in them to be good designers." [Mutterlein]
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MISS: Helmut Lang
"It took two people to make even more of a mess than what Shayne [Oliver] did all by himself. This sloppy cut-and-paste of Helmut’s most identifiable signature details on basics as so lazily done here is why no one has understood what makes Helmut so unique and untouchable since he left his own label. It’s the ugly Frankenstein’s monster syndrome." [Phuel]
"So much noise some seasons ago trying to revamp this cult brand... I don't know who owns this brand now, but I wonder why they don't get Helmut Lang was about wearable avant-garde and not just basics with diluted details from his glorious past all over each look." [jeanclaude]
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MISS: LaQuan Smith
"Heinous. Trash. Disgusting. Go away." [dior_couture1245]
"Nah. There's no development or personality in these clothes. This 'niche' of clothing is needed, but this isn't strong at all. This collection looks like nothing was edited. As if he went with the first sketch, first drape and first sample of everything. It's unfinished. I think he has potential, but I also wonder if he has the budget to do what he wants successfully." [reese06]
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MISS: Rag & Bone
"How did this make the NYFW cut?" [SophiaVB]
"Want to like this more because it's Rag & Bone, but I can only commit to the knitwear. Like Eckhaus Latta, it's where they prosper. The rest is too scattered. I'm not getting the point of view of this. Some flashes of Slimane's Celine with a dash of Jonathan Anderson. Cop-out collection. Doesn't deserve a presentation." [Benn98]
"Put out a lookbook — these clothes don’t need a show." [Will Ross]
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MISS: Vera Wang
"I feel like she’s been putting out the same collection for quite some time." [reese06]
"Every time I click to see a Vera Wang collection, I wonder why I’m not seeing a white dress. Who is this for?" [Lola701]
"Vera. Honey. Gurrrrl. Ma'am. No. Thank. You." [Mutterlein]
See all the looks from the Vera Wang collection.
