Images: Imaxtree
Not even the gloomy weather could dampen the fashion pack’s spirits as they flooded Paris for fashion week. The highlights? Maria Grazia Chiuri kicked things off by staging Christian Dior’s collection on a recyclable set. Anthony Vaccarello showed off Saint Laurent’s latest in front of the Eiffel Tower with a little help from Naomi…
Hits & Misses: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2020
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HIT: Rick Owens
"God I love when Rick takes these traditional codes of fashion and elegance and filters them through his awesome, twisted mind. This is fantastic. So regal and badass." [Marc10]
"Such a beautiful show, after last season's 2009 nostalgia trip we're finally back to our regular programming. A gorgeous and subdued homage to Mexico by Rick Owens is the stuff of my dreams and he pulled it off like only he can." [YohjiAddict]
"Didn't know I needed a Rick Owens ballgown in my life, but here we are." [Salvatore]
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MISS: Balenciaga
"Snore, Margiela and the likes showed this type of collection 10+ years ago. Sad to me that it's getting buzz, shows how unexciting the fashion world is right now." [HeatherAnne]
"Pretty much a recycling of stuff he's done before. The same exaggerated shoulders, the same 80s prints, the same skin tight dresses, the same shoes...whatever charm his clothes had, it's wearing thin by now." [Marc10]
"This collection (and all the collections he has done so far at Balenciaga) are as ridiculous as going to an expensive haute cuisine restaurant just to order some hamburgers, a couple of Cokes and french fries...what a waste!" [jeanclaude]
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HIT: Dries Van Noten
"This is the real deal. A new range of design language is here to stay with DVN. And I get to experience Lacroix polka dots and baroque colors again. Haven't been taken into a new language of floral patterns in quite a while. Loving the vibe. Love a moment like this." [Pricciao]
"Absolutely glorious. I'm in awe of how Dries perfectly incorporated the codes of Lacroix into his own ethos. It's wild, it's glamorous, it's sophisticated, it's grand, it's desirable...it's really fucking incredible. Fashion with a bold and beautiful capital F." [Marc10]
"This is fashion. This is exactly what I needed. I can't stop thinking about it since I've seen the show." [helmutnotdead]
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MISS: Givenchy
"That was rough! The appliquéd dresses were ugly as sin, the denim was uncalled for and the Phoebe-isms ended up flat and forgettable. I won't defend this mess..." [YohjiAddict]
"This isn't a match made in heaven. There seemed to be some possible promising hints, but it looks like she's choking. I miss clear depth and vision." [Nymphaea]
"I don't think Clare has a clear vision of what to do with Givenchy. It's like she's just throwing random things on the runway. Actually, this whole collection feels totally random." [perhydrol]
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HIT: Valentino
"He just puts a smile on my face, every single time. It's so beautiful. Those first white looks were so crisp and elegant. The pops of color were great, the prints are very fun and upbeat, the whole look was effortlessly sophisticated." [Marc10]
"Ahhh, this collection is so beautiful. It was a pleasure watching the video — everything especially looked great in movement. I'm obsessed with the beginning section with all of the white shirtdresses. It's so light and gorgeous!" [bluestar]
"Completely obsessed with it, the color palette as always just works. It's perfect!" [gossiping]
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MISS: Olivier Theyskens
"I’m afraid it’s not as strong as last season. I’m sure his casting budget is minuscule, but these models really do a disservice to his work." [dior_couture1245]
"There's something uncomfortable about the models and the way they are carrying the clothes. They really are distracting, which is not good for this runway show at all. The collection seems really underwhelming TBH. I miss the old Olivier." [Peppernplatinum]
"Maybe the budget would have been better spent on a lookbook? This feels unnecessary for Paris..." [SophiaVB]
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HIT: Elie Saab
"This is maybe the best RTW collection ever from Elie Saab. It’s sexy, perfectly executed and I think his culture made possible for him to totally understand the way African women dress and the way to mix it with his aesthetic that has become global, but that was first for women of his region." [Lola701]
"Very elegant and surprisingly restrained. I love the daisy print." [AnaD]
"This collection is classier and less tacky than his other collections." [liaa]
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MISS: Lanvin
"It’s really nothing special. It’s all been done before and better. Is it strange that I thought of 'The French Michael Kors' when I saw this?" [GivenchyHomme]
"Too scattered, the messy prints and styling didn't do him any favors, either. I mean it's better than what we had, I like the Loewe aesthetic after all, but I'm not sure anyone will be excited by this. To rebuild this brand he needs to give us a clearer point of view." [YohjiAddict]
"I used to love Lanvin...but suddenly the brand has become so immemorial and irrelevant to me." [DK92]
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HIT: Maison Margiela
"Stunning! I've just checked myself to see whether the reason isn't pure bias, but it's not. This collection walks a fine line between wearable and avant-garde and it's obviously coming at a time when the brand is surging ahead in the more commercial market." [Benn98]
"This show was like a fresh breeze. He is adorable mixing those exquisite elements, romantic in every line and stitch and perfect in the construction." [CholoChic]
"This is just fantastic, I love the way that he has made the clothes look old but also modern at the same time! The headpieces were such a clever stylistic choice and they really add character to the looks, making the whole collection also feel more cohesive overall." [Nomar]
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MISS: Chloe
"Not feeling this collection, the pants are sloppy and the sandals are hideous." [disco54]
"Camille Bidault-Waddington styled this mess apparently. SO BAD. This is her worst collection for the house of Chloe. Those platform sandals are a nightmare, the tailoring is basic and the draping sloppy. Boring colors and textures. Very safe and Zara-ish collection." [IloveDiorHomme]
"She sold out. What a shame, she had such an amazing start." [GivenchyHomme]
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HIT: Junya Watanabe
"John Galliano is shook now! Somebody is coming for his throne!" [Lola701]
"Amazing construction and details, I adore the jacket with the inverted zipper front. This collection is like Galliano's wet dream (trench coats galore)." [jeanclaude]
"Brilliant exercise in construction and deconstruction! So awesome how he managed to give a new identity with each look." [Marc10]
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MISS: Nina Ricci
"I thought their first collection was a good start. It went downhill quickly. This collection looks like it comes out of a graduation show. Those buckets. Ugh." [TaylorBinque]
"All their collections look like they were made for Jamiroquai music videos. Stop it." [HeatherAnne]
"They're really biting more than they can chew here. It was a poor decision to give a Parisian maison to two people with such little experience and with such different ethos. There are some nice pieces here and there, but overall very weak." [Marc10]
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HIT: Issey Miyake
"Absolutely magical collection — filled with levity, life and loveliness." [Not Plain Jane]
"I love Miyake's point of view and I loved this show." [dfl-001]
"The Japanese obsession with wide hats is such a lovely thing and they really work with the outfits. I liked the first section the most with the breezy layering, the pale pink looks and those brushstroke print coats." [YohjiAddict]
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MISS: Balmain
"There is just way too much happening here. It is exhausting to look at." [perfect blue]
"All of the colors and shapes and disorganization make this look like a child's craft project." [lelaid]
"The problem with Olivier is that he can't edit. He overthinks, over designs and the look becomes too much. This collection is so unbalanced." [TaylorBinque]
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HIT: Loewe
"Easily one of the best collections from fashion month! He’s on another level of design that even most of these senior designers can’t touch (unless they copy him, of course)!" [GERGIN]
"Fantastic collection, another hit from Jonathan. This is quite refined, light and feminine — but in his own way, never too precious or delicate." [Marc10]
"God bless you, Jonathan. What a beautiful collection. Perfectly thought out and well executed." [TaylorBinque]
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MISS: Altuzarra
"I knew from the very beginning he was not a good designer." [dior_couture1245]
"This is like Victoria Beckham... It could have been designed by anybody for any other brand trying to have momentum. And no Joseph, having a slit on every look doesn’t make it Altuzarra!" [Lola701]
"This is neither awfully offensive nor especially memorable." [Phuel]
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HIT: Yohji Yamamoto
"This is refreshing." [perfect blue]
"God bless this man, he saves fashion for me every season. I will never bore of his interpretation of black garments, the opening slew of looks is perfect, although I think my favorite is the long buttoned dress with the sequined skirt slung over the shoulder." [Fiercification]
"Those black looks feel so light and airy. Such a joy to look at." [TaylorBinque]
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MISS: Hermes
"Some of these would pass as disposable clothes that you fold and throw into a bin at the end of your spa day." [YohjiAddict]
"Why is she still there? Tod’s is better than Hermes." [Lola701]
"I like Hermes, but this looks dated by over a decade." [perfect blue]
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HIT: Mugler
"I'm actually loving this new Mugler. It looks empowering and sexy at the same time. His clothes are definitely risqué, but also still appropriate if that makes sense, there's a good balance." [Nomar]
"Of all the versions of Mugler over the years, Casey’s is the best. He’s a good designer. This is nice. Is it enough to make Mugler hot again? I think it needs more than what even the best clothes could offer to do that. Love the casting." [Mutterlein]
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MISS: Ann Demeulemeester
"There's just no one like Ann. Sebastien has all the pieces, but it doesn't come out quite right." [SophiaVB]
"Yeah, what the hell happened here? Not sure what he's trying to do here, but this seems very far removed from what Ann Demeulemeester used to be. It's lacking everything I loved about the brand. Easily his weakest collection since he's been in charge." [Psylocke]
"This is a letdown. It's too vampy. It needs more poetry to be Demeulemeester." [Not Plain Jane]
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HIT: Isabel Marant
"Really, really makes me wish summer wasn't ending. I want all of this, now." [TianCouture]
"Wow! This collection is fabulous! I want summer now." [caioherrero]
"What a fabulous cast!" [Lola701]
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MISS: Celine
"I couldn't be more bored with his Celine at this point." [ForTheImage]
"Even Michael Kors did this 70s redux better. Boy, bye!" [Ken Doll Jenner]
"I couldn't even last through more than three looks on the livestream before I closed it. This is just depressing, but I guess Hedi's new Celine woman reflects that, looking like she's always in a bad mood. No thanks." [Nomar]
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HIT: Akris
"Finally, a change to something more simple and elegant. Well executed and styled. It's a grown-up sophistication that isn't desperate to chase a new faded trend." [TaylorBinque]
"It’s rare to see something so coherent. This is luxurious, aspirational, grown-up and modern without going for the usual casual attitude." [Lola701]
"Akris is so underrated. Their shows are always really good, but they always seem to be passed over by the press. This collection is elegant, refined, but very eye-catching with the color and prints." [AnaD]
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MISS: Christian Dior
"I honestly don’t think it’s possible for her to make a collection without adding in a thousand sheer dresses and long skirts. She’s really such a ‘basic’ designer and I can’t stand it." [Nomar]
"Well, she's been there for the last four years and to be honest, Dior got what it deserved. It's a totally commercial maison with no ambition to be pushing anything forward and this woman who can only 'design' a fake feminist T-shirt is just perfect for her position." [perhydrol]
"Yuck. Drab, dull and ugly." [MyNameIs]
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HIT: Sacai
"I really love this brand, their pieces always look good and are so well-made. The opening isn't my cup of tea, but it does get better." [AnaD]
"The girls always look so cool at Sacai. Chitose makes such fantastic modern and urban clothes, it's a shame this brand flies under most people's radar." [Nomar]
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MISS: Saint Laurent
"The first part was ugly, unflattering, uninspiring and GOD what a weird cut some pieces have. The second part is the same old thing, but this time with an extra dose of the usual bad styling." [ghostwriter10549]
"This collection is just plain lazy. The same old." [showtonic]
"Basic and safe collection full of references from YSL archives. Another commercial collection full of clothes and empty of actual creation." [jeanclaude]
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MISS: Off-White
"Everything looks sooo poor." [Vitamine W]
"Everything looks so amateurish and it’s just embarrassing. He’s been celebrated as one of the biggest names in fashion these days, but never stopped churning out loads of junk. It’s really hard to find anything interesting in his Off-White work." [haoshcn]
"It's so ironic that the fashion world is suddenly concerned about the future of the planet and yet celebrates a name that puts this much waste into the world." [dodencebt]
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MISS: Paco Rabanne
"Proof that mixing prints, colors and textures is not for everyone." [Karl Boucher]
"No comment." [aracic]
"What a wonderful tragedy. There are some interesting pieces here and there, but as a whole it's a disaster. It's like Rodarte with better resources and with metal mesh in their archives. There's some Miu Miu thrown in the mix, too." [perhydrol]
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MISS: Chanel
"Depressingly underwhelming." [KissMiss]
"Now that Virginie has had the chance to show a pre-collection, a couture collection and a ready-to-wear collection, I think it’s fair to say that she is not a good creative director who will take Chanel where it needs to be. She makes nice clothes, and I don’t doubt she was great as Karl’s head of studio, but this isn’t it. There is nothing to aspire to here." [dodencebt]
"Again, it's just a bunch of clothes. No artistic direction, no design, no vision...just a watered-down version of Karl's blueprints. This really won't do." [Marc10]
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MISS: Stella McCartney
"Yikes! The few men's looks are the only ones I like. And I almost missed them." [dfl-001]
"What's the point of presenting your menswear if you're only going to show five looks? I mean they're all pretty forgettable anyway and she should honestly just give up on it because it doesn't even sell well." [Nomar]
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MISS: Giambattista Valli
"To be honest. I think most of these dresses border on infantile. What self-respecting person would wear these dresses? It’s like a 4-year-old child drew a dress." [Norden]
"Why the need to add a ruffle or bow to every nook and cranny? It's downright distracting and ugly." [reese06]
"Sad ruffles and even sadder arm puffs. The whole collection looks like it got wet and wrinkled and they dried it and put it on the runway. Everything seems deflated." [AnaD]
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MISS: Alexander McQueen
"I consistently forget that this brand even exists anymore, which is so sad given how iconic it used to be. What a shame." [Salvatore]
"Her work is so mind-numbingly pedestrian." [dior_couture1245]
"Obviously, there are some gorgeous pieces here, but when you compare this collection to McQueen's own collections or even Sarah's earlier collections, this just falls so flat. It doesn't really feel like it has a soul." [bluestar]
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MISS: Miu Miu
"I am sorry to say this, because I like Miuccia, but this brand has become totally irrelevant. The cast is tragic." [FashionFanatico]
"Very stupid-looking." [dior_couture1245]
"And people are saying Chanel is boring? This is pitiful." [TianCouture]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu collection. -
MISS: Louis Vuitton
"Absolute trash. I can't even say I'm excited to see his own label at this point." [helmutnotdead]
"The best Anna Sui has looked in years!" [RedSmokeRise]
"It's a really horrendous mix of Alessandro Michele and Maria Grazia." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton collection.
