Images: Imaxtree
Not even Storm Dennis could prevent the industry’s elite from crossing the pond to check out the Fall 2020 shows at London Fashion Week. So it was up to the designers to bring some sunshine to the English capital via the runway.
Which designers reigned supreme?
Simone Rocha put a smile on everyone’s face with a “magically dreamy” collection as did London Fashion Week regulars Emilia Wickstead and JW Anderson. The most underrated designer around, aka Hussein Chalayan, proved every inch his worth with a collection that catered to all of our sartorial needs. Margaret Howell delivered a collection with zero gimmicks, but lots of covet-worthy jackets. And we predict a riot will ensue once Victoria Beckham’s accessories arrive in stores.
Which designers missed the mark?
With the triumphs came the disasters. Can someone let Riccardo Tisci know he needs to edit down his looks for Burberry? They all start to blend together after a while. We also suggest Matty Bovan steers clear of the fabric scrap heap. After making its London Fashion Week debut, we think 16Arlington should stick with a lookbook format. And we’re beginning to wonder if Richard Quinn is a one-trick pony.
Click through the slideshow above for our forum members’ unbiased and unfiltered take on the hits and misses of London Fashion Week Fall 2020.
Hits and Misses: LFW Fall 2020
-
HIT: Simone Rocha
"Magically dreamy...the earlier black and ivory section made me think, if only for a twinkling moment, 'Is this how a modern Chanel might look?'" [Not Plain Jane]
"The details are exquisite." [Yohji]
"Lovely all around!" [Machinegumm]
See all the looks from the Simone Rocha collection. -
MISS: Burberry
"Awful, just awful." [liberty33r1b]
"Way too many looks and by the end of it, none of them say anything definitive." [Yasouss]
"Feels like a collective show of various designers: too long and completely disjointed. It is as if Burberry had become a fashion school all of a sudden and they are having a graduation show for the students." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Burberry collection. -
HIT: JW Anderson
"I really like this! It’s a very nice collection that maybe represents what we have seen so far at LFW, but elevated and more desirable!" [Lola701]
"I quite like this. It has the air of the Raf auditioning for Dior collection." [TaylorBinque]
"I like how he built from the wool and knits from last season, sneaking on details to give it texture. I just love how sophisticated his brand has gotten, even those huge coats have a weird sort of elegance." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the JW Anderson collection. -
MISS: Molly Goddard
"Why would anyone want to wear her stuff? Everything is so unflattering and makes underweight models look bloated." [avonlea002]
"Those sweaters at the end were clearly not meant to be ugly on purpose and yet that's all I can see, they look like they would be the butt of a joke on a lousy sitcom." [YohjiAddict]
"Some outfits look like an English version of Comme des Garçons..." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Molly Goddard collection. -
HIT: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
"When you strip away the crazy styling, you're left with interesting little black numbers, but my fancy tickles toward the two-piece ensembles. As usual, one of the highlights of LFW." [Benn98]
"I always think Preen is a little bit underrated, like Chalayan." [Mathewthew]
"Masculine/feminine deconstructionaire." [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi collection. -
MISS: Christopher Kane
"The least inspiring collection he's shown in some time, the geometric pattern isn't interesting at all." [HeatherAnne]
"Like I’ve mentioned before in his collection threads...it’s such a mistake for him to have such little focus on his shows now. There’s no consistent silhouette or detail or gimmick that defines one collection of his from the next. His earlier work is so definable..." [dior_couture1245]
"Some of the dresses with geometric cuts reminded me of his first collections (when his work was interesting). But the rest is generic." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Christopher Kane collection. -
HIT: Erdem
"I always look forward to Erdem shows. One of my favorites of the entire season so far." [dfl-001]
"Very beautiful." [disco54]
"Somewhat mishmash-y, but still some gorgeous looks throughout." [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Erdem collection. -
MISS: Tommy Hilfiger
"Um...what is this?" [Salvatore]
"VILE." [TianCouture]"After the beautiful and on-brand Zendaya collection, he just said f*** the clothes! I just see a whole bunch of nothing orchestrated by the marketing team." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Tommy Hilfiger collection. -
HIT: Margaret Howell
"The jackets, in general, are standouts." [Not Plain Jane]
"Fashion with a point of view that doesn't make you look like an idiot, great!" [tatouejeremie]
See all the looks from the Margaret Howell collection. -
MISS: 16Arlington
"Didn't know what this brand was until this thread came up. This just looks like every other influencer created direct-to-consumer brand." [RedSmokeRise]
"That look on Lena Dunham's face is where nightmares begin and it's all I can see now." [dfl-001]
"I scrolled so fast I missed Lena's face, it looks like she had a vision of her future in which she dies of a heart attack. Awful clothes..." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the 16Arlington collection. -
HIT: Victoria Beckham
"I enjoyed it! All for those first few all-black looks in the opening section, then the introduction of the plaids and the belts add that little extra for a few looks. Every last thing is wearable, not ridiculously OTT (unlike most others during LFW)." [vogue28]
"A bit Sacai-like this season and it served her well. We finally got some sanity out of LFW." [YohjiAddict]
"Only decent show in London. I love it, the belts are my favorite part." [gossiping]
See all the looks from the Victoria Beckham collection. -
MISS: Richard Quinn
"A one-trick pony." [Nomar]
"What's his vision? What does his brand stand for? Who is the Quinn woman? Why does he matter? I don't see anything new. I don't find anything exciting." [TaylorBinque]
"I mean, we’re still doing those Balmain pearl jackets and Margiela masks in 2020, really?" [dodencebt]
See all the looks from the Richard Quinn collection. -
HIT: Chalayan
"So sophisticated and beautiful." [Not Plain Jane]
"So sad to see legends such as Chalayan ignored and overlooked by the fashion industry. One of only a handful left where it is actual design and not cheap gimmicks." [dontbeadrag]
"The only collection worthy of London Fashion Week." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Chalayan collection. -
MISS: Matty Bovan
"Oh PUH-LEEZE." [dior_couture1245]
"Central Saint Martins should change their teaching program because every year they keep producing designers like Bovan who can't create a decent collection. This is pure trash." [avonlea002]
"I'd say this is a waste of fabric, but I'm guessing he already got this from the scrap bin." [kenndale]
See all the looks from the Matty Bovan collection. -
HIT: Emilia Wickstead
"I want everything and I am not even female. If I were, I would just compose my whole wardrobe with this collection and need nothing else ever again. So wearable and gorgeous!" [dontbeadrag]
"I'm not even the biggest Wickstead fan, but this is so clean and elegant." [Yohji]
"This is really lovely and gorgeous!" [Salvatore]
See all the looks from the Emilia Wickstead collection.
