London Fashion Week Spring 2022 is history. Now it’s on to Milan. But first we’re taking a look back at all London had to offer.
Despite the absence of British heavyweight Burberry, there’s lots to unpack from the London offerings. Michael Halpern experimented with electrifying colors and billowing silhouettes. Nensi Dojaka presented her first solo show featuring a fitted and undeniably sexy collection. While Edward Crutchley transported us back to the 18th century and paid homage to London’s queer culture.
Meanwhile, Vivienne Westwood took inspiration from her iconic 90s pirate-themed collections. David Koma marched his army of models across the pool at the London Aquatics Centre. Matty Bovan presented a gender-free collection full of texture, pattern and color. Over at the British Museum, Erdem marked its 15th anniversary with an Edwardian-inspired collection that served as an ode to the designer’s mother. Plus, Simone Rocha proved once again she’s the reigning queen of London Fashion Week thanks to a collection boasting delicate embroidery, tons of ruffles and an array of bow and ribbon detailing.
Ready to see which brands made impressions for all the right (and wrong) reasons? Here are all the hits and misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2022.
Hits and Misses London Fashion Week Spring 2022
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HIT: Simone Rocha
"A perennial favorite and this is no exception. Drama! Romance!" [KINGofVERSAILLES]
"Out of all the Victorian-esque collections with ruffles and lace we bear witness to during London Fashion Week, Simone Rocha always feels far more elevated, refined and polished in comparison with the rest. This season is no different!" [vogue28]
"Honestly, she's the only one I'm rooting for at LFW these days." [RedSmokeRise]
See all the looks from the Simone Rocha collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Bora Aksu
"First few looks are perfect for the Tatler reader too cheap to buy Gucci and trying to get that shepherdess-on-acid look for less...but as the collection progresses it becomes a nightmare..." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Bora Aksu collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Emilia Wickstead
"Per usual, Emilia Wickstead with an extremely elegant, regal and refined collection which is an absolute delight to digest. The location and photography complement the collection wonderfully! The most elevated and sophisticated collection to come out of LFW this season hands down." [vogue28]
"Emilia Wickstead is my personal LFW favorite each time. Her clothes look very high quality and have amazing construction." [dontbeadrag]
"The perfect wardrobe to live out all my Harper's Bazaar/Tatler garden party fantasies." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Emilia Wickstead collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Erdem
"This collection is very 'Erdem on autopilot', kinda soulless and directionless. While it had all his signature details, it didn't really hit the mark. That's a shame because it's his 15th anniversary." [perhydrol]
"I usually love Erdem's unapologetic romanticism. But this looks heavy for a spring collection." [dfl-001]
See all the looks from the Erdem collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Roland Mouret
"I love this. Feminine, sexy, rich, simple, no gimmick collection." [dontbeadrag]
"I find the cut of one dress interesting... It's the first (and so far only) garment which has caught my attention since this boring fashion month began..." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Roland Mouret collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Halpern
"The dancers really tried to elevate this mess, but a mess it remains! Some looks are Tomo Koizumi, others Capucci on a budget and some others would fit right into a Balmain show..." [YohjiAddict]
"The use of The Royal Ballet dancers does nothing for me and only distracts from the clothes. Last season was far more coherent as opposed to this collection which I'm struggling to appreciate." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Halpern collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Palmer Harding
"It's OK. Most pieces are elegant and chic..." [WAVES]
"One of the better collections to come out of LFW without a doubt! A strong selection of wearable and chic pieces with the orange dress being the absolute standout." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Palmer Harding collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: David Koma
"Alexander Wang x Versace." [THD96]
"I'm so ready for cut-outs to go the way of Sies Marjan and quietly disappear without anyone missing them." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the David Koma collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
"The prints are just ruining the collection so ugly the lot of them." [YohjiAddict]
"A simple studio shoot would've sufficed to present the collection. I usually look forward to Preen during LFW, but the backdrop here is an eyesore and completely pulls focus from the clothes." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Vivienne Westwood
"Besides the pirate blouse, logo bags and British references there is hardly anything that I find relevant or relating to the times — something that she supposedly did so well." [Fulton St Critique]
"I don't understand why this stuff keeps happening season after season. And doesn't she preach to stop buying new clothes, too?" [susseinmcswanny]
"Archival pieces mixed with generic clothes...as subversive and cutting-edge as shopping at H&M (but more expensive)." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Vivienne Westwood collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Richard Malone
"What's the point here? I miss 90s London creativity." [jeanclaude]
"I'm curious what Malone tried to achieve with those last three looks, they look like something Craig Green would do and reject immediately." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Richard Malone collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Molly Goddard
"This is terrifying and you can't convince me otherwise." [YohjiAddict]
"This looks like a collaboration for Uniqlo; such a diffused aesthetic from what she usually offers and one of her worst shows to date." [Frederic01]
"What in the Walmart ready-to-wear sales aisle is going on?" [WAVES]
See all the looks from the Molly Goddard collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Matty Bovan
"The design equivalent of 'Look ma, no hands!'" [jeanclaude]
"Still hurts to look at season after season." [RedSmokeRise]
"Atrocious, an absolute eyesore and an embarrassment to London Fashion Week." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Matty Bovan collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Edward Crutchley
"It takes real chutzpah to wear this..." [dfl-001]
"These clothes would only be acceptable for a community theater representation of A Midsummer Night's Dream..." [YohjiAddict]
"This collection is either too commercial to the point of aesthetics of H&M or too costumey in a 'cheap Halloween party' way. There's nothing between." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Edward Crutchley collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Knwls
"Can't imagine anyone wearing it outside the Instagram bubble. Why even bother when you can get similar pieces from Fashion Nova or Shein." [avonlea002]
"The extras from various early aughts music videos..." [YohjiAddict]
"You can tell they had 'Dirrty', 'Get Right' and 'Me Against The Music' music videos all over the mood board." [dontbeadrag]
See all the looks from the Knwls collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Nensi Dojaka
"This season is about tacky cut-outs...they are everywhere, it is like a plague!" [jeanclaude]
"I don't understand the hype around her brand and her aesthetic. She literally has one idea — the slinky dress with the straps and cut-outs. I'm confused as to why this merits a fully-fledged show at London Fashion Week?" [Frederic01]
"Like all London designers that are trying to build a brand around a gimmick, she'll be gone and forgotten within a couple of years." [tatouejeremie]
See all the looks from the Nensi Dojaka collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Yuhan Wang
"Simone Rocha but sewn in the dark..." [YohjiAddict]
"It’s a mess. Too much of everything: knots, prints, ruffles, lace, weird belt bags..." [WAVES]
See all the looks from the Yuhan Wang collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Margaret Howell
"Even COS or Uniqlo collections look much better. Beyond DULL." [WAVES]
"Anything that is a shirt or shirt-looking would be a nice addition to any wardrobe, but this is quite drab compared to her past work... I think she could dial up the militaristic aspect in her style..." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Margaret Howell collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Kiko Kostadinov
"Three concepts repeated in different colors and fabrics...and they call this a 'collection'..." [jeanclaude]
"Y/Project and Casablanca’s ugly baby." [Fulton St Critique]
"It really does make Y/Project look Chanel-level quality..." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Kiko Kostadinov collection.
Image: Imaxtree
