Images: Imaxtree
Haute Couture Spring 2022 Hits and Misses
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HIT: Schiaparelli
"Somehow this is both exactly what I expected to see and also feels creative and original. Beautiful. Nearly every look is a glamorous showstopper." [KINGofVERSAILLES]
"It’s a feast for the eyes and it’s impeccably executed..." [WAVES]
"A rather spectacular collection full of exciting showstopping elements and every single look is just screaming out to be worn by someone who wants an iconic or buzzworthy red carpet moment. Drama and pure fashion. What more can we ask from a Schiaparelli couture collection?" [vogue28]
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MISS: Chanel
"The perfect definition of a nonevent production." [GERGIN]
"There’s no soul at all, just plain clothes. I don’t get the equestrian theme, either. As far as I’m concerned, it wasn’t translated to the clothes, just another gimmick." [thiago:)]
"There are so many ugly elements and weird combinations that I wonder what’s going on in Virginie Viard’s head. Nothing good or tasteful for sure, but I still wonder. Someone replace her please." [WAVES]
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HIT: Viktor & Rolf
"I love their sense of humor, reminds me of their first shows." [CholoChic]
"I'm happy for them to return to the kind of direction that rightfully placed them among the most promising designers in the early 2000s. Their best collections were built around 'the grand fashion classics', distorting them in clever ways but never at the cost of chicness or wearability. This delivers that beautifully without the addition of tacky gimmicks." [tricotineacetat]
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MISS: Christian Dior
"There's more couture in my sock drawer." [Vitamine W]
"It took John Galliano over a decade to go into autopilot at Dior and even then it was still creative. Maria Grazia Chiuri's been at Dior maybe six years and entered autopilot easily two years ago. There is actually no effort in this at all." [TianCouture]
"For a house founded on the principles of optimism, this collection, along with 99 percent of Maria Grazia Chiuri's tenure, is extremely sad. The perfect description for this collection is that it exists." [LadyJunon]
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HIT: Jean Paul Gaultier
"I like the dark, sensual, romanticism mood of the collection. The last dress is stunning." [THD96]
"There are some lovely pieces and interesting ideas all over the place, in particular, the high collar emerald green gown and the last coral corset dress are to die for." [JohannesL]
"I have to admit I'm glad Glenn Martens took interest in the more evening, bourgeois element of Gaultier's work. There are a handful of gorgeous looks. I love the completely laced corset gowns. Very beautiful." [dior_couture1245]
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MISS: Valentino
"What a disorganized mess! Please no more ruffled capes!" [TianCouture]
"What a mess of a show. It’s so lacking in direction that any bit of excitement evaporates. Nothing made sense. This is the state of fashion." [WAVES]
"A directionless and stale collection with the usual taffeta dresses." [JohannesL]
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HIT: Alexandre Vauthier
"Brilliant collection, I always love his haute couture shows." [gossping]
"There’s an energy, a dynamism that I really enjoy about Alexandre Vauthier. It’s fun, sexy and unpretentious." [Lola701]
"The silver sequin to chain mail-paillette and the black sequin dresses are simply and eternally drop dead gorgeous. I’ll even take the power suits." [Phuel]
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MISS: Fendi
"Waaaay too hard and slick for Fendi. The brand used to have a soft touch of humor, but it's now gone. I wouldn't be mad if this was Givenchy. Weird fabric choices, ill-fitted tailoring and the overplayed Roman theme don't help, either." [RaisinBoy]
"I can't stomach how badly made everything looks. One can argue whether something is tacky, tasteful or beautiful, but good tailoring (which is a bare minimum in couture) is not up for debate." [avonlea002]
"This looks extremely banal. Kim Jones does not have anything to say in womenswear. I don’t see a particular point of view or aesthetic." [Lola701]
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HIT: Ronald van der Kemp
"Clever, inventive, surreal dresses that go from print to 3-D coming alive on the wearer are simply beautiful. There’s a sense of individuality, character and such spirit to those designs that honor the traditions of haute couture with such freshness." [Phuel]
"Excellent as always, some of it is truly magical. He'd be so awesome at Schiaparelli actually." [Vitamine W]
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MISS: Azzaro
"It’s really dreary. I honestly thought Olivier Theyskens' first two couture collections for the house were quite lovely and stylish and glamorous — a good mix of his aesthetic and the house's. And while last season grew on me a bit, this is really poor and sad-looking." [dior_couture1245]
"Those laminated jersey turtlenecks and all-over sequin suits honestly look like cheap carnival costumes..." [tricotineacetat]
"This is terrible." [Lola701]
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MISS: Charles de Vilmorin
"Vile...morin!" [jeanclaude]
"It’s all shadows and darkness to hide the stunningly poor tailoring. The sloppy puckering, the uneven hemming of the first blue dress looks like a costume from a third-rate theater company." [Phuel]
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MISS: Rahul Mishra
"The distant cousin of Richard Quinn..." [jeanclaude]
"Oh good grief. It looks like some 6-year-old girl just went crazy with flower and butterfly stickers... That purple bodysuit with all the 3-D florals resembles some awful skin disease." [Phuel]
