LFW Fall 2022 Hits and Misses
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HIT: Erdem
"Beautiful selection of fabrics." [jeanclaude]
"Romantic, tasteful and elegant with a slight twist that made it all the more pleasant. Love what he is doing. I don’t see how anyone could find this work poor or appalling." [Fulton St Critique]
"I really like some of this! Well finished, love the details and nice proportions. To me it's refreshing that despite the flashiness it doesn't seem really that recognizable in a social media type of way. You wouldn't look like a walking advertisement. Chic!" [susseinmcswanny]
See all the looks from the Erdem collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Simone Rocha
"Simone Kawakubo...it is so obvious that it's so shameful!" [jeanclaude]
"How the hell does one wake up every day and feel so convicted about producing a collection entirely knocking off another designer’s style?" [dior_couture1245]
"If Miu Miu and Comme des Garçons had a love child it would be this collection." [GivenchyHomme]
See all the looks from the Simone Rocha collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Emilia Wickstead
"Emilia Wickstead always delivers, always. The majority is sure sleeping on her. Elegant and construction is great, everyone looks amazing." [dontbeadrag]
"Elegant indeed and Emilia Wickstead even managed to make the checkerboard print look elegant and sophisticated. The tailoring looks exquisite, love the silhouettes (a total breath of fresh air for LFW) and that gold sequined number toward the end is heavenly!" [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Emilia Wickstead collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Richard Quinn
"Matronly, awkward and gimmicky." [YohjiAddict]
"He wants to be a star designer, but there is no skill nor talent to support it." [avonlea002]
"Still hasn't evolved seasons later. It's still very reminiscent of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga Spring 2017 collection. Also in the mix is Pierpaolo Piccioli's Valentino with the volumes and color palette..." [Frederic01]
See all the looks from the Richard Quinn collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: David Koma
"Sexy and strong, will take this over anything else we've seen at LFW." [TianCouture]
"This almost feels like a breath of fresh air after what is currently being served up at LFW. It is indeed strong and sexy and doesn't resemble a reject Central Saint Martins or Vivienne Westwood collection. Always look forward to David Koma and I'm not disappointed." [vogue28]
"Super sexy and great set...so many things I would love to wear." [gossiping]
See all the looks from the David Koma collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Molly Goddard
"Looks like a final year graduation show." [WAVES]
"To play with bad taste you’ve got to have good taste first. This is so…unimpressive, so reliant on the styling to once again sell us the exact same garments she’s been doing since the start. Where’s the risk? The imagination?" [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Molly Goddard collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Raf Simons
"It's a good collection for Raf, very focused and clear in its ideas." [Norden]
"This is a pretty intense and interesting collection. At least Raf has a signature aesthetic and these clothes aren't plastered with logos and the standard hypebeast signatures that have been dominating fashion in the last few years." [Frederic01]
"I do enjoy this, very Simons, sterile and clean..." [dontbeadrag]
See all the looks from the Raf Simons collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Christopher Kane
"I can't focus on the clothes with these eyesore backgrounds. If you can't do a show, a white background is sufficient." [THD96]
"I don't know, it feels like his collaboration with Kering killed his creativity and we should just let it go now." [perhydrol]
"To think Christopher Kane was at the top of his game a decade ago. Now look at him." [GivenchyHomme]
See all the looks from the Christopher Kane collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Eudon Choi
"A very solid offering from Eudon Choi this season. I always appreciate whenever a color palette flows throughout a collection and everything just looks wonderful here. The shade of red used at the beginning is gorgeous! A highlight of LFW without a doubt." [vogue28]
"It’s cute, being London, you just exhale a sigh of relief that there’s some real clothing being produced in this city." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Eudon Choi collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Halpern
"Still trying to make sequins and metallics his thing so not much has changed. The fringe is no, the colored satin is meh and the two tone sequin looks are unfortunate." [Cocteau Stone]
"Most of this should seriously go in the bin particularly those fringe dresses that morph the models into hairy creatures straight out of Where the Wild Things Are..." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Halpern collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Palmer Harding
"These clothes are so graceful and elegant...the way they envelop the body, like swathes of wind, is quite romantic." [YohjiAddict]
"Very clean and easy. It makes me appreciate it way more than I would expect myself to." [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Palmer Harding collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Roksanda
"Honey, if you're going to put everything into your collection at least make sure it's harmonious. Everything clashes and not in a good way. It's messy and unrefined." [GivenchyHomme]
"What happened? Fall 2021 she pushed the big volumes theme enough. Here it just looks crazy!" [RedSmokeRise]
"Was Craig Green interning for her this season? That’s the only real explanation for this parade of half-built camping tents parading down the runway." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Roksanda collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Conner Ives
"This was a solid collection. This was well constructed, well designed and the clothes were interesting and fun. Also a constant I've observed in Conner's work is that he's capable of editing, something that even established British-based designers fail at." [LadyJunon]
"Sweet. Charming. Pretty. I love the brown, 70s silk scarf print dress, the wildfire fleece pullover, the butter yellow fringe dress..." [dior_couture1245]
"Honestly not complaining about how light it is for a fall collection and I don’t think his clientele will care much, either. Conner is probably one of my favorite up and coming designers right now. Love his mix of 60s/70s concepts with a modern, eco-conscious twist." [GERGIN]
See all the looks from the Conner Ives collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Nensi Dojaka
"This is literally the same collection she did last year at LFW. I am still seeing Anthony Vaccarello's namesake brand in all of this, but done badly and with a much less impactful cast." [Frederic01]
"Another one-trick pony. Already tired of this lingerie gimmick. This has been done by a million Instagram brands already." [avonlea002]
"I don't want to sound bitter and old, but this new generation of designers lacks the skills and craft that for so long rightfully placed London as the most important talent incubator in the early 2000s." [tricotineacetat]
See all the looks from the Nensi Dojaka collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Sharon Wauchob
"Another treasure trove!" [Not Plain Jane]
"Got me on that gorgeous second look and it got even better…so yummy and comfy-looking while still very luxurious in some parts. She never disappoints." [MulletProof]
"She’s so reliably good. And so direct and tightly edited. I’ve said it before: I'm convinced she is such a rightful and only heiress to Helmut Lang. That the duvet and shearling components are so instantly Helmut-esque but evolved, not stuck in instant retro." [Phuel]
See all the looks from the Sharon Wauchob collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Matty Bovan
"Another CWF (Criminal Waste of Fabric) from London... Will they ever rediscover the pleasure of real clothes?" [YohjiAddict]
"I feel like all these young designers from London don't know anything about actual design. It seems like they've spent waaaaaay, waaaaay, waaayyyy too much time studying their favorite designers on YouTube and Tumblr and not nearly enough time studying, you know, themselves." [eugenius]
"Hilarious! This can't be serious? I'm seeing three/four/five different design aesthetics packed into one single look. I see Vivienne Westwood, Raf Simons, Jeremy Scott, Simone Rocha, Viktor & Rolf, just for a start. A little of the Comme des Garçons spirit, too." [Frederic01]
See all the looks from the Matty Bovan collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Harris Reed
"Tired and tacky." [YohjiAddict]
"One season later and the finish and craftsmanship of his clothes have not improved one bit. It still looks amateurish and incredibly cheap..." [Frederic01]
"This collection leaves me cold. Reed designs for themselves and only for themselves. It's littered with expected tropes and fabrications and reeks of someone that has had the most privileged of upbringings that is being shoved in my face as a current pinnacle of gender expression. Pass." [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Harris Reed collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Huishan Zhang
"First look reminds me of Marge Simpson's Chanel suit." [susseinmcswanny]
"That pink dress with a fitted bodice and bell sleeves is one of the most tortured pieces of satin I’ve ever seen. It’s so boring, too, from a conceptual standpoint is no different than current Carolina Herrera, just done without any know-how or quality control." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Huishan Zhang collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
"Thom Browne mixed with opioids while living in the back seat of an abandoned car near a dumpster." [jeanclaude]
"The references are so obvious and derivative you can't help but compare it to what they're trying to replicate." [Cocteau Stone]
"Can't make out the clothing through all the clutter." [Urban Stylin]
See all the looks from the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy collection.
Image: Courtesy
