Today marks the fourth day of Menswear Milan Fashion Week – the final on this season’s jam-packed schedule. At 02:00pm CEST, the fashion pack gathered together to bare witness to Sabato De Sarno’s sophomore menswear collection as Gucci creative director. The Italian designer opted to stage his latest showcase within the Triennale Milano, a sprawling design and art museum situated in the largest park in Milan. Sat perched on the front row was Paul Mescal (a brand ambassador) donning a striped cotton pair of shorts that upon first glance could have been mistaken for boxers. Mescal’s choice in attire was in fact a preview of things to come, with De Sarno dressing 41 of his 46 models in shorts. One model took to the runway donning just a pair of leather shorts in Gucci’s De Sarno-designed “Ancora Rosso” oxblood color. Surfing motifs were splashed throughout the collection, with De Sarno seeking inspiration from William Finnegan’s autobiography Barbarian Days. On the accessories front, the Gucci B crossbody bag made a reappearance – first introduced in De Sarno’s debut collection.
Read below the reactions of theFashionSpot’s forum members:
“The clothes and styling is just so feminine and also so dorky. And as with everything from Sabotage De Sarno so far, it just looks so department store/mid-market.” [lookatme]
“I can’t define what I just saw. It has zero soul, zero identity. It’s like a little bit of Prada but done in a very ugly way. Then part of it seems inspired by what your 10K-followers-basic-and-brainless-influencer-around-the-corner-who-sees-himself-as-an-underground-edgy-figure-and-thinks-that-has-WW-influence was wearing 2 years ago. It just doesn’t make any sense to me.” [Creative]
“They say they’re trying to regain a more traditional customer, but then they fill 2/3 of the collection with booty shorts.” [LadyJunon]
“It’s like Zara did a collection inspired by Prada and Valentino, only thing is that Zara would’ve had the awareness to do this a few years ago when the designs were new.” [VogueDisciple93]
“This is such a laugh! I can’t point out a single idea of Sabato De Sarno for Gucci. All we see is just a remix of Prada, Valentino, Dior etc. There is no vision, there is no soul.” [Olaffo]
“A bit like Prada, a bit like Valentino, a bit like Ferragamo (pre- Davis) and none of it is Gucci.” [Yasouss]
“Oh well, I think his time will be up soon. No conviction, these models don’t look confident. No characteristics, no personality. Just clothes that fill the void gives no meaning whatsoever.” [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Gucci Menswear Spring 2025 collection and join the conversation, here.
